Help replacing camber bolts
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Help replacing camber bolts
Hello everyone.
I have a question in regards to replacing my camber bolts on my 2005 Pontiac G6 (3.5L V6 4-speed Automatic). It seems that the standard camber bolts are a bit short for adjustment so I needed to order some new ones. In watching some videos in how to replace it, I see that the mechanic was using a torque wrench to put the new ones on. The question is, how much torque do you use for these camber bolts. Again I have the following car
2005 Pontiac G6 (3.5L V6 4-speed Automatic)
4 Door Sedan
This is my exact car. Even looks like it.
2005 Pontiac G6 Base Sedan 3.5L V6 4-speed Automatic Features and Specs
Thanks in advance -
Dale
I have a question in regards to replacing my camber bolts on my 2005 Pontiac G6 (3.5L V6 4-speed Automatic). It seems that the standard camber bolts are a bit short for adjustment so I needed to order some new ones. In watching some videos in how to replace it, I see that the mechanic was using a torque wrench to put the new ones on. The question is, how much torque do you use for these camber bolts. Again I have the following car
2005 Pontiac G6 (3.5L V6 4-speed Automatic)
4 Door Sedan
This is my exact car. Even looks like it.
2005 Pontiac G6 Base Sedan 3.5L V6 4-speed Automatic Features and Specs
Thanks in advance -
Dale
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
assuming you are talking about the front you just loosen the two bolts tilt it in or out (bottom is oval) then tighten to 89ft lbs. not sure how longer ones would help
The following users liked this post:
ddemott (02-12-2014)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for your quick reply. Firestone told me while they were doing the front end alignment that the stock camber bolts were too short and that I had to replace them so I could get more adjustment. Seeing how much they wanted to charge me for it, I figured it wasn't THAT hard to do. I purchased their lifetime alignment service from them so I figured I'll put the bolts on myself and then go back in for an alignment. Maybe they were trying to milk me for more $$$$. Not sure.
Last edited by ddemott; 02-12-2014 at 02:05 PM.
#4
Senior Member
True Car Nut
certainly wasent the front. or they are feeding you crap. the rear has camber bolts but if you are out of adjustment there is normally something wrong that needs fixed, bushings, ball joints, bent control arms etc. i am not aware of "longer" cam bolts like that
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hmm. Not sure. I was looking up two camber adjustment kits. One gave you the ability to adjust more. Notice the first one gives you +/- 1 3/4 degrees. The second one gives you +/- 2 1/2
#1
Camber Adjusting Kit - Front Susp
Part Number: NCP 2643641
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
IMPORTANT INFO: w/ 12mm Bolt,Minus 1-3/4 Degree To Plus 1-3/4 Degree,Single Offset
#2
Camber Adjusting Kit - Front Susp
Part Number: NCP 2643668
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
IMPORTANT INFO: w/ 12mm Bolt,Plus or Minus 2 1/2 Degree,Double Offset
Here'* the link that I was using off of NAPA
NAPA AUTO PARTS
#1
Camber Adjusting Kit - Front Susp
Part Number: NCP 2643641
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
IMPORTANT INFO: w/ 12mm Bolt,Minus 1-3/4 Degree To Plus 1-3/4 Degree,Single Offset
#2
Camber Adjusting Kit - Front Susp
Part Number: NCP 2643668
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
IMPORTANT INFO: w/ 12mm Bolt,Plus or Minus 2 1/2 Degree,Double Offset
Here'* the link that I was using off of NAPA
NAPA AUTO PARTS
#6
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Certified GM nut
justin, i agree with the OP. i have seen TONS of g6'* with premature wear on the edge of the tire. pontiac screwed up on the camber bolts.
#7
Senior Member
True Car Nut
From the GM service manual for 05 G6;
•Loosen both strut to knuckle nuts just enough to allow for movement.
•If the strut has not been modified previously, perform the following steps before continuing with the wheel alignment:
3.1. Disconnect the strut from the knuckle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
3.2. File the lower hole until the outer flange slot matches the inner flange slot.
3.3. Connect the strut to the knuckle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
•Adjust the camber to specification by moving the top of the wheel in or out. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications .
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
•Install the strut to knuckle nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 120 N·m (89 lb ft).
•Loosen both strut to knuckle nuts just enough to allow for movement.
•If the strut has not been modified previously, perform the following steps before continuing with the wheel alignment:
3.1. Disconnect the strut from the knuckle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
3.2. File the lower hole until the outer flange slot matches the inner flange slot.
3.3. Connect the strut to the knuckle. Refer to Strut Assembly Replacement .
•Adjust the camber to specification by moving the top of the wheel in or out. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications .
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
•Install the strut to knuckle nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 120 N·m (89 lb ft).
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Justin -
Thanks for your replies. Very useful. I actually did call the Firestone to confirm if it it was in the front or back that needed the camber adjustment. They stated it was the front. These postings though will prove to be informative for whenever others (and possibly me) need either front or back camber adjustments. By the way, I did need the control arms replaced due to the ball joints going bad in the front. It seems that the factory G6 ball joints go bad OFTEN. Maybe its because the whole assembly is aluminum. Next time I'll consider getting an after market control arm that is made better.
Thanks man!
Dale
Thanks for your replies. Very useful. I actually did call the Firestone to confirm if it it was in the front or back that needed the camber adjustment. They stated it was the front. These postings though will prove to be informative for whenever others (and possibly me) need either front or back camber adjustments. By the way, I did need the control arms replaced due to the ball joints going bad in the front. It seems that the factory G6 ball joints go bad OFTEN. Maybe its because the whole assembly is aluminum. Next time I'll consider getting an after market control arm that is made better.
Thanks man!
Dale
Last edited by ddemott; 02-13-2014 at 10:40 AM.
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