AC Compressor Seal
#1
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AC Compressor Seal
Strange situation!
I have a 2004 Bonneville, it had a history of cooling system leakage (not the intake plenum, been changed it is ok). Finally found the two ell fittings near the alternator and change them. Time went by - leaked again, put a pressure tester on the radiator, one of the ells was leaking - changed them both to the new metal design. Time went by - noticed what I thought was coolant smell from inside the car. Couldn't find a leak in the cooling system. Liquid was directly inline with the serpentine belt. Finally traced the problem to the ac pump front seal, I had liquid coming out of the clutch assembly spraying all over and getting on the serpentine belt.
I recently recharged the AC system, it took coolant very slowly I thought. Took a long time before the evaporator was flooded and the return line to the compressor cooled. Over the years I have added dyes and sealants to the AC system as it has been a source of leaks.
Question: is it reasonable to believe that the various stop leaks and dyes were too great a volume for the compressor and that they added to the loading and were an additive cause of the seal being compromised?
Unless I hear differently I believe the fix here is to replace the system except for the coils, clean the coils, install new parts, evacuate and charge.
Any other thoughts?
thanks,
I have a 2004 Bonneville, it had a history of cooling system leakage (not the intake plenum, been changed it is ok). Finally found the two ell fittings near the alternator and change them. Time went by - leaked again, put a pressure tester on the radiator, one of the ells was leaking - changed them both to the new metal design. Time went by - noticed what I thought was coolant smell from inside the car. Couldn't find a leak in the cooling system. Liquid was directly inline with the serpentine belt. Finally traced the problem to the ac pump front seal, I had liquid coming out of the clutch assembly spraying all over and getting on the serpentine belt.
I recently recharged the AC system, it took coolant very slowly I thought. Took a long time before the evaporator was flooded and the return line to the compressor cooled. Over the years I have added dyes and sealants to the AC system as it has been a source of leaks.
Question: is it reasonable to believe that the various stop leaks and dyes were too great a volume for the compressor and that they added to the loading and were an additive cause of the seal being compromised?
Unless I hear differently I believe the fix here is to replace the system except for the coils, clean the coils, install new parts, evacuate and charge.
Any other thoughts?
thanks,
#2
Retired
Sounds like you may need to flush the entire system, replace the dryer and the compressor and evacuate and recharge.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
#3
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Thread Starter
AC compressor seal
I planned on flushing the coils individually with the spray cans of cleaner available, I could evacuate the system as it sets run a flush refrigerant through it and then dissemble but wasn't planning on that.
Do you believe that the spray cans will flush the coils enough? Will also clean the lines at this time.
I don't know if there is still a flushing refrigerant available, used to be R-111 would work, some used other solvents like alcohol (not under pressure). With the present laws I planned to evacuate any freon left, take the system down, flush, replace, evacuate and recharge.
I haven't used the cans of cleaner, do you know of any issues with them?
thanks,
Do you believe that the spray cans will flush the coils enough? Will also clean the lines at this time.
I don't know if there is still a flushing refrigerant available, used to be R-111 would work, some used other solvents like alcohol (not under pressure). With the present laws I planned to evacuate any freon left, take the system down, flush, replace, evacuate and recharge.
I haven't used the cans of cleaner, do you know of any issues with them?
thanks,
#4
Retired
I've never used them before myself, but have seen some kits that need an aircompressor to clean the lines with.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
#5
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Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
After removing the compressor, accumulator and metering device (I always called them expansion valves), and reading various instructions on using flushing liquids I decided to backflush only the condenser. Didn't get anything that looked bad out. The screen on the metering device caught a lot of stuff, it was clogged! The leak sealants and dyes apparently caught up to me.
My compressor didn't quit, it never locked up or burned out. When the shaft seal went I lost the compressor oil and freon, the LP sensor prevented the compressor from running.
I put the system back together, added oil to replace what was lost in the condenser and also for the new compressor. Drew it down and held it for over an hour, recharged and the system is working fine again.
For anyone else who needs to change their compressor, you really need to raise the vehicle to get to the compressor, only way to really have adequate access to the attachments to it.
Thanks for your input on this.
My compressor didn't quit, it never locked up or burned out. When the shaft seal went I lost the compressor oil and freon, the LP sensor prevented the compressor from running.
I put the system back together, added oil to replace what was lost in the condenser and also for the new compressor. Drew it down and held it for over an hour, recharged and the system is working fine again.
For anyone else who needs to change their compressor, you really need to raise the vehicle to get to the compressor, only way to really have adequate access to the attachments to it.
Thanks for your input on this.
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