My 96' pontiac bonneville with 172k miles also named christine has scanned a code p1441 flow during non-purge....pontiac sometimes fails with chuggin or slipping of rpm while applying accelerater, it does stall and sometimes have trouble restarting. EGR Valve replaced at 80k, PVC valve replaced at 120k, throatle body position sensor replaced, upper intake manifold replaced along with caskets for upper and bottom maniford have been replaced >10k miles. Small crack on top of radiar but as long as coolant is kept at good level it does not leak or overheat. im thinking of starting at charcoal cannister first since it'* only a $3 dollar part...any help would be appreciated brought to stealership and was charged $1250 dollars for them to not fix the problem...have some time off of work and would like to get this problem fixed.....PLEASE HELP

Start with this write up. https://www.gmforum.com/showthread.p...75#post1391405

Could be a cracked vacuum line, or a bad purge valve.

the purge valve is under the top cover near the coil pack. there are two vacuum line that come from the throttle body one goes to the purge valve and the other goes to the fuel pressure regulator, check that boot on the tb and the lines. thats a common place for dry rot and that would cause your driveability issues too.

Hey guys, thank you both for your very quick responses....i've changed out the purge valve with brand new part...car really did not respond I cleared the code and nothing has popped up since...I plan to drive it back to autozone tomorrow and see if the codes come back or if anything comes up.......my beauty still chugged once the car was warmed up and driven aggresively down the highway it stalled in my driveway again...waited about 30 minutes and it started right up and pulled into garage...did that same last night and has done this multiple times in the past weeks....any other suggestions? A few of my buddies said to check ERG valve as it is an after market part...although I know you really can't check an electric ERG valve like you can an vacuum ERG valve....I replaced the original at 80k and it'* 90k since that repair...could that be causing these problems...or would it be traced somewhere in the vacuum process...could you guys check back tomorrow and I will update again sometime mid-morning...afternoon? Thank you again for all your help with christine.

You may have a vacuum leak. Try spraying some carb cleaner around when the engine is running. If there is a stumble, you have found the vacuum leak.

Thank you again for the response. Should I start at the engine and spray away or start away and spray towards the engine? Any specific vacuum hose connections I should go with first? I should spray on the hoses correct or directly on engine? I do have a small crack in the radiar where the hose connects to it....very top upper right hand side if you are looking under the hood....not sure that would cause the problem I've been having...what are your thoughts? Thank you very much for your help.

did you look at the ones i mentioned?

Start by the throttle body and spray the hoses and connectors. Spray anywhere unmetered air can enter the engine after the MAF. Vacuum lines, gaskets, injectors.

Hey there guys sorry for the delay but I got caught up at work today and I don't have access to the internet at work. However I did check the two vacuum lines that run from the throttle body on the engine where you had mentioned and those were in excellent condition I believe I had those changed 20k miles ago. I sprayed the carb cleaner around the gaskets which like i had mentioned had been replaced less than 5k miles ago and sprayed them along the vacuum lines that ran post MAF to the engine and it did not stutter as expected. After changing out the purge valve I reset the check engine and it has not come back on. However on the way home from work today my baby immediated the conditions that caused it to stutter and stall the previous day. However this time I backed off the accelerator and let it coast down the road to my house and pulled in my driveway and it actually made it to the garage. Since it was about 18 degrees today I let the car warm up at work before attempting to drive it and the rpms were running around 2500 when it was in park and once I shifted into reserve to back up it dropped down immediately. When i put it back into park to shut and lock the gate behind me it jumped backed up to 2500 and then when I put it into park it then shifted back down to 1500 which still stricks me as high for just idling in drive. I will check back early morning to see what you guys think. Thank you very much for all your help I have a feeling this is going much better than it was making me broke like the stealership did. Thank you again and please let me know if you will need any more information....I'm also waiting for the check engine light to come back on to see what it is. Any other vacuum lines I should check? Thank you again and have a great night!
Ross

Two things come to mind to check, first is the MAF. Unplug it, the engine will stumble a bit but should smooth out after a bit. You can drive without the MAF, it wont hurt the engine. however, don't get on it, just drive easy. If the problem goes away then it'* likely the MAF is bad. If no change, the MAF is not the problem. After that I would check the throttle position sensor. You will need a multi meter for that. https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shooting-test-procedures-141/testing-tps-throttle-position-sensor-279319/