94 bonneville oil pressure. :( - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 09-19-2013, 05:03 PM   #11
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If I change my oil will it prevent it from getting worse?
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:13 PM   #12
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Sure couldn't hurt. I've ran heavier weight oils on my high mileage engines and have got lots of life out of it. My truck had 150k on it and it would drop down to 12psi at idle when warm. I switched to 20w50 and it helped the oil pressure when hot. I winded up changing the engine at 200k not because it knocked or seized but it wouldn't pass smog due to too much nox gas from ring blow by. I had a ford currier when I was a teenager that the oil light came on at idle. I put 20w50 in it and It fixed it for a while than the oil light stayed on all the time after a while. I drove that thing for a year before it seized up with my 17yr old lead foot.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:01 AM   #13
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i think its to early to be worrying about that on a 3800 that will least 300k most times. my bonny i bought it a few years old and it has has regular valvoline 10w-30 every 5k. its got almost 200 now and still gets the same mileage and still has the same oil pressure. i tried some high mileage at around 150 and it made it run rough and got 2 less mpg. my wife drives it and we use it on the weekends, so thats probably 3times a year
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stridenttube View Post
If I change my oil will it prevent it from getting worse?
You are still assuming this is a symptom of bearing failure, and I don't think that is the case. Changing your oil never hurts, but I still think it is a sender/gage issue. There is also a spring loaded relief valve located in the oil filter housing that sometimes gets stuck and causes a drop in oil pressure. Simple matter of pulling it out and cleaning it.

I always try to fix problems by taking the obvious steps and seeing where that gets me. In this case the obvious step is to change the oil, filter and sending unit. It MAY fix the problem, but it will also give you an opportunity to see if there is metal in the old oil. Make sure you drop the oil into a relatively clean container so you know any contamination you find came out of the engine, not from the container.

Don't increase oil viscosity. Any gain in pressure you achieve will be at the expense of flow. Are you using 10W30? If so, stick with that for now.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2kg4u View Post
You are still assuming this is a symptom of bearing failure, and I don't think that is the case. Changing your oil never hurts, but I still think it is a sender/gage issue. There is also a spring loaded relief valve located in the oil filter housing that sometimes gets stuck and causes a drop in oil pressure. Simple matter of pulling it out and cleaning it.

I always try to fix problems by taking the obvious steps and seeing where that gets me. In this case the obvious step is to change the oil, filter and sending unit. It MAY fix the problem, but it will also give you an opportunity to see if there is metal in the old oil. Make sure you drop the oil into a relatively clean container so you know any contamination you find came out of the engine, not from the container.

Don't increase oil viscosity. Any gain in pressure you achieve will be at the expense of flow. Are you using 10W30? If so, stick with that for now.
I'll buy a new oil drain pan and look for metal glitter, will a magnet help me find it? I have a few hard drive magnets that I can use. Would 10w30 made for high mileage engines help? I've always used the same kind of quaker state. Hmmm, I'll see if I can clean the oil pressure relief valve, how hard is it to screw that up? haha
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Old 09-20-2013, 01:51 PM   #16
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Your oil pressure is FINE.

Change the oil and see what happens.
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