2004 GP GTP Rear Wheel Bearings. - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 03-05-2013, 07:20 PM   #1
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Default 2004 GP GTP Rear Wheel Bearings.

So I'm trying to remove the rear wheel bearings on a 2004 Grand Prix GTP. I've gotten everything off/out except the four bolts holding the bearings to the knuckle.

I suspect these bolts are 10mm... my 3/8 won't quite fit... unfortunately, I only have 12 pt 10mm sockets and when I put some muscle into it, the 10mms slip. Luckily, it appears my sockets took the damage, not the bolts.

I hit everything with PB blaster and I suppose I'm going to have to search for a 6 sided, heavy duty socket to really put some muscle into this.

Then it'll be time for some percussive therapy and heat.

Anyone know the exact size of the bolts? Any good tips for getting them out?

Thanks in advance,

BKNJ
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:55 AM   #2
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i dont remember the size but everything is metric. you need good six point sockets to work on cars. i never use 12. those things always cause more trouble than they are worth.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:49 AM   #3
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How did you get the brake shoes off without metric sockets? Go to Harbor Freight and invest in a set of 6 point metric sockets. If your current sockets are soft enough where they will round instead of the bolt you are trying to loosen, get a new set of standard sockets as well. I admire the fact you are doing your own work, but you need a basic set of tools or you are lost before you start.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:00 AM   #4
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i like the sears ones, for 3/8ths drive. you can get one of those sets when on special has just about everything in there for 100. and if it ever breaks you can take it back. ive only ever had to take one 3/8ths ratchet back and i frequently use extension bars and stuff on them. the only thing i got from harbor freight that hasent given me trouble is the metric and std deep impact socket sets i got from there and some torx sockets
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:06 AM   #5
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I pointed him to Harbor Freight as the least cost alternative. I agree with you on Sears ... pretty much all of my tools are Craftsman.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:58 PM   #6
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the way i look at it its not cost savings if you have to go buy the sears ones anyway after the hf ones fail.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:31 AM   #7
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Wait a second here guys... I'm not at my first rodeo here with 9 tools. I have been fixing cars for 30 years and have lots of toolsets, metric, SAE, 12pt, 6pt, long, impact, wobble, etc., etc... however the 6pt metric short set switches to 1/4 drive at 10mm and my long metric impact set starts at 11mm... if other sets had a 6pt 10mm, I've long since lost it. In any case, this has been fine for years since one typically does not need to put 100ft/lbs on a 10mm. Every other hub I've changed was held in place with beefier bolts.

The 12pt 10mm in question is a Craftsman. Most of my tools are Craftsman with a few Husky (Home Depot) or Kobalt (Lowes) which are just as good. Its simply worn after decades of heavy use. I do agree with the sentiment here, that 6pts are better than 12pts, but 12pts can give you more clocking options when working in a tight spot... so there are plenty of 12pt tools around my shop... and when you are trying to get a job done, you'll try a 12pt when you don't have a 6pt.

The reason I question the bolt size is that the bolts in question are on the small side for 10mm... like I said, the 3/8 almost fits. My 6pt 10mm 1/4 drive tools were REALLY sloppy on these bolts. I would not dare attempt to use a 1/4 drive in this case, as I'm sure I'd snap it right off.

What really burns me is that I totally forgot to check a big 155pc Craftsman set that I had stowed in the back of the garage. But its going to be Nor'easter for the next few days while I wait for some extra parts come in, so I'll check that out before hitting the stores.

Speaking of the Sears return guarantee, one of the things that I don't like is that returning a once precise 3/8 drive ratchet gets you a sloppy rebuilt one.

BKNJ
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:45 AM   #8
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I've been in that scenario before. One socket seems to fit almost just right, another just a tad too small. This is why I keep an old cheap socket set around. Get the 3lb sledge out, a couple of cheap extensions, and bash a cheap undersize socket on. That has gotten me out of situations like that many times. Then I usually just head to the hardware store and replace those bolts.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:34 PM   #9
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the bolts on the suspension are frequently small because of the rust and mikes plan usually works, i just use the sears sockets though, ive never had one break even pounding the next size smaller on.

as far as the 12p ive screwed myself to many times to use it at all. i just have multiple sets around so i always have the right six point even if one breaks or gets eaten by the engine. i use the 10mm more than any socket between the car and my atv'* i have a half dozen probably just in case
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:36 PM   #10
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If the corners of the bolt head are rounded, I have used these with some success before:

Craftsman Bolt Out Bolt Nut Remover Set 5 Pieces with Case New Removers Made USA | eBay

They have internal teeth with a left hand thread that bite into the bolt head when turned counter clockwise.
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