so keep stock in front,

ust change everything in the rear?

Ok yeah, that makes sense.

If that works, then thats going to save be a bit of $ bt i still need to get new struts in the front, cuz i think mine are going or are bad :?

Yup.

Cool thanks

Ok next question...

Whats the difference in the front springs? and the Struts far as FE2 and FE1 goes...?

Hight?
Stiffness?
Ride?

yup, keep the stock front sway and softer springs.

general rule:
The more you stiffen the rear or soften the front the less understeer you have.
The more you soften the rear or stiffen the front the more understeer you have.

After reading this thread once through, it did appear that Badnit said he was going to have seperate lines going to each strut to control air pressure seperately. Later in the thread, it seems that is not the case. To ensure for future posters, it should be mentioned that changing pressure in an ELC strut differently than the other side is potentially very dangerous.

And on with your topic Badnit. Can I suggest getting a compressor and an SSE/SSEi back panel from a 96+, adding a pressure gauge. That way you can control pressure easily and look semi stock.

I dont want to do the SSE/Ei compressor setup.
Thats more $ and more wire i will then have to run. Its winter, in lazy, i just want to get ride of the bouncy ride and poor handling.

Far as the dual lines go, yes im still going to do that.

My bro on his 84 Buick Regal put air Shocks in. When he did it he did dual lines, So he could keep the SAME pressure in both sides better then just having one line with a Y in it the can transfer air from one side to the other when cornering hard.

If you really think about it, Whats stopping the air fron coming out of one Air bag or what ever is in the strut and going through the line and going to the other struts that now has less pressure on it now because you are leaning to one side while your turning.

Its going to help keep it more level.

Unless someone can explain to me how air can not travel between the two Air struts throw the Y Air lines, Im going to keep thinking this one cuz it all makes sense.

And Pat, they are Gas and Air

Gas for the dampening part. and Air for the Leveling part.

Bandit, there are these magic little devices called 'checkvalves' that prevent crossflow. Don't plumb them seperately.

In addition, don't leave FE1 on front and do FE2 on back. Your car will be unbalanced, and the installed height of the springs will have a 1/2" or more difference. That'll be one funny looking funny riding car, IMO.

Wren.... Just a question, but how is the back going to be lower when im going to have air struts back there :?

Far as the unbalance goes, well i was worried about that also, but Unbalance as in now my back ends going to start to kick out... :? Then Good, i want that, i Hate it when the front of the cars push.


Also, if there are checkvalves in them then how do you let air out of them then?

because if air can come out when you let air out of the line, then air sure can come out of the strut and go into the other one through the open air line.

Bandit, the installed height of the rear FE2 springs is shorter than the FE1, which gives a lower ride height, so you're going to forcefully UNLOAD those FE2 springs to match height? Not a good idea, bud. ELC was designed for FE2 in a normal application. Unloading them at the track is one thing, but I wouldn't do it year round.

The checkvalves are selectable depending on what mode you're in. This is how I trick my ELC full up at the track by using the inflator circuit. The struts will deflate and vent when they are commanded to by the level sensor by energizing the selector valve behind the right rear seat in the trunk.

This is a full package. Do it all, or don't do it. The way you'll have to run the ELC to preserve your every day ride height will end up causing you problems in the long run. Especially when you have a load in the trunk.