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Old 05-29-2009, 09:04 PM   #11
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If your going to pick up a multimeter then you can test your TPS.
https://www.gmforum.com/t279319/
Check your MAF
https://www.gmforum.com/t279320/
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Old 05-31-2009, 12:54 PM   #12
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Alright I took off all my spark plugs again and gapped them correctly. I applied dielectric grease to the plugs, inside the wire connection to the plug, and on the coil connections as well.

I tested my coils, from top to bottom the readings I got were 5.69, 5.74, and 5.8.
After some fumbling I finally was able to put the tester ends into the TPS and hold them steady and connected with one hand so that I could move the throttle with the other. I ran up and down slowly 3 times. It went from .99-1.00 up to 4.10-4.12 max. Went nice and smothe.

I did not check under my coils because I didn't have scrap wire, and also I haven't figured out how to check my MAF yet, I'll have to study that guide some more. (I'm a picture-orientated kinda guy, lol) Might be out of my skill level for now.

As for a possible vacuum leak, I'll look around for how to test for that. Can I not simple buy new tubing, cut and replace all the existing vacuum tubing? It just slides on, right? Also I'm thinking of replacing all the plastic wire cover tubing like you did DAN.

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Old 05-31-2009, 01:17 PM   #13
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To test the MAF you just unplug it and start the engine. If it runs the same the MAF is fine, if it runs better, the MAF may need a cleaning or replacment.

Test for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner on the lines while the engine is running. If the RPM goes up you found a leak. Or you can just change the lines if you want.
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Old 05-31-2009, 05:14 PM   #14
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Okay well I am stopping by a store to pick up a new engine oil dipstick(lol I broke mine) And while there I will look into new vacuum tubing and new plastic tubing too.

Hmm... I have been getting my engine light on a few times, but only very briefly. I'll try unplugging it and will report back.
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Old 05-31-2009, 05:29 PM   #15
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I unplugged it and started the car. It started but it was chugging. I wouldn't die, but it was chugging. I then shut the car off, plugged it back in and started up again. It chugged the same for about 7 seconds then kicked up to about 2 RPM and when back down and was again idling smoothly. So what does it mean when my engine runs worse?

I'll see how much carb cleaner is at the store when I'm there. I looked in my manual doesn't have a diagram of lines either. I'll ask the guy at the store maybe he can show me.
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Old 05-31-2009, 10:35 PM   #16
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Thinking about this further.. it sounds very vacuum leakish.

Pull your airbox out and check the vacuum lines under it and to the charcoal canister. Check the u bend on the throttle body as well as all the T'*. They like to crack and cause leaks. So much that I'd think that'* the most likely cause.
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:28 PM   #17
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Went out today and the Engine light came on. I was riding around all afternoon doing stuff and it came back on every time I turned the engine on again.

When I got to the highway I gave it a good WOT and my security light came on for a minute, then went away.

On the way back home I swung by autozone to get the codes printed. This is what it said on the receipts:

P0440
Definiton
EVAP (evaporative emission system) small leak/no flow condition
Explanation
The evaporative emission system is monitored for it'* ability to hold vacuum.
Probable cause
1. - Defective or loose fuel cap
2. - EVAP canister or hose cracked - not connected
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective
4. - Vacuum leak at engine

P0102
Definition
MAP (Man. absolute pressure)/BARO or MAF(Mass Air Flow) /VAF(Vane Air Flow) sensor condition.
Explanation
All vehicles have one or more of these components. Engine load or the AIR colume entering the engine is measured by these components. The computer has recognized a return signal error.
Probable cause
1. - Vacuum hose off, cracked, or passage blocked- Engine mechanical timing condition.
2. - Throttle Body intake tube lose, off, or cracked.
3. - BARD(Barometer/MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) defective.
4. - VAF (vane Air flow)MAF (mass Air flow) sensor dirty or defective.

P0300
Definition
Cylinder misfire detected - random cylinders
Explanation
The powertrain control module monitors the crackshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition.
Probable cause
1. -Ignition system fault-spark plug(*), ignition wires, coil.
2. Vacuum leak
3. - Injector fault
4. - high or low fuel pressure.

The guy said about the last code that it may just need a tune up. I informed him that I just did a tune up. He asked if I used platinum spark plugs. He said it might be the spark plugs. I didn't remember at the time, but I checked and yes the Napa guy sold me Autolites Double Platinum when I asked for autolites for my car.

But I noticed #2 there also says vacuum leak, couldn't that be it? (I'm already almost positive there'* one or more vacuum leaks)

I looked at what T'* I could see with my eye, but I don't know where all the vacuum lines are. I've been searching google for a while and haven't found a diagram of my vacuum lines, and neither is it in my manual nor when I pop my hood.

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Old 06-15-2009, 08:08 PM   #18
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You have a vac leak. The P0300 code comes up a lot with vacuum leaks. Check the lines under the air box.
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:24 PM   #19
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I was going to wait until I bought a new air filter to check under my air box while I gutted it, but maybe I should do it sooner.

Thanks, I'll let you guys know what I find.
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