Here are some notes from what I found on the install and have sent off to Mike at WBS in hopes that they can be reviewed for future improvements on the headers.

The headers took me an extra 3 hours more than usual (SD'*, SLP'* etc) to install. The rear went in ok, with the cradle down while the cam was being installed. Didn't want to bolt up though. It'* typical with SD, SSAC ZZP'* and SLP'* to not need to bend/tweak the dipstick much at all. The rear header was no where near it'* correct location. I ended up bending the trans dipstick about as much as a TOG install. The tube in Rich'* car is currently leaking from being bent like a pretzel and we'll be addressing it a third time soon.

On the rear header, I found the bolt hole closest to the #2 primary (between #2 and #4) to be very close to the primary. The bend in the primary kept me from attempting to put any regular sized tools in there.


Ended up using a bolt with a 10mm head and the 1/4" shallow socker with universal and 1/4" ratchet to tighten it. Still looks like it'* sitting on the weld.




The driverside bolt on the outside of #6 was a pain. There is no clearance to get tools in to tighten it down. I tapped the nut and die'd the bolt to make them go together by finger and was able to get about 1/8th of a turn for tightening it down.
The EGR tube on the headers has a tube that is too small for the EGR tube to fit into and be bolted down. PaceSetter did the same.



The fix, cut the EGR tube down, which potentially causes a leak. Requires the EGR to be removed from the motor.

You would think issues like this would have been addressed before going in to production. Seems like the design was rushed. How was clearance for the O2 sensor?

No clearnance issue at all. It'* in the front crossover. Right, it'* only reading the front bank.

OK, I see that now in the picture. Looks like the trans dip stick is in contact with the cross over pipe. Is that going to cause a vibration problem?

You tell me. It'* bolted to the trans, the trans is bolted to the engine, the exhaust is bolted to the engine. Might be..but I'm more worried about the leak.

Mike at WBS said you can bend the tube or cut the bracket, weld it back on 180 degrees from stock and it should clear.

You know how it is when the exhaust touches things. Should be OK, but might get rather hot. Perhaps WBS needs to look at their design instead of saying modify your dipstick. I've worked on a lot of engines with headers, and I've noticed a lot of them don't even bother bolting the dipstick back in. Just leave it unbolted and then zip tie it to something else to hold it back.

A lot of 3800'*?

I never remove the dipstick, because..you really shouldn't have to. Heck..I didn't remove this one either. Or I'd never have gotten it back in.

I didn't install those headers. I'm talking about cars that come here for work.

I understand. You wouldn't leave bolts out. I see stuff missing constantly and know you do too.

They probably took them out and couldn't figure out how to put the bolt back in with the clearance available.

What clearance?