Still working on the tank. I'm reinforcing the joints with fiberglass resin, and coating the inside of the tank with rubber, cuz I don't need to fill my spare tire well when this thing leaks. I'm going for a 100psi pressure test when it dries.

If it doesn't work, I'll turn it into a super-soaker.

Christ !! A 100 Psi super soaker .. you're going to be blowing the panties and tops off woman... humm... got room to fit some ice in it

Just convert a propane tank.

Ty

I actually am considering that for the final version, or a water heater tank out of an RV. The biggest problem is a fill cap for the water.

Ok, I ditched my homemade tank. Only cost about 20 bucks to learn it wasn't the way I wanted to go. Just spent 30 bucks on a brand spankin' new 5 gallon propane tank, fits into the niche on the driver'* side of the trunk by the taillights nicely. Because of the relatively thin wall of the tank, I'm changing all my fittings from 1/4npt to 1/8npt, for better thread bearing surface. I pulled the valve assembly out of the top of the tank....that'* gonna be the fillerup hole for water (it was a bitch...had to heat up the blue goo they put on the threads) and I tried a boat transom drain hole plug to seal the hole, but it starts leaking pressure at about 50psi. The air fitting I tapped into the top of tank holds pressure above 70psi, I'll test it further when I get a better solution for the fill plug. Might have to be a plastic threaded plug with a T handle, or something to that effect.

Anyway, to make a long story short, Speedguy firmed up my thoughts on the LP tank, and it is the solution. I need to add a sight glass, water outlet, and pressure outlet for the pressure switch, the control rack is built (relay, PS, valve), and the switches/led'* are installed. It'* all plumbing and wiring from this point, and even the limit switch I'm installing in the shifter will work. Gotta make a mounting bracket at work tonight.

I'll be testing the system out of the car, just the tank and water outlet with the fogger, using my big compressor to vary pressure. I have no doubts whatsoever. Interesting thought on adding the led'* like I did. The amber LED that tells me the compressor is pressurizing the tank will also give me an idea of when the tank goes dry. Without the water to try to compress, it'll run almost flat out when empty. Amber light stays on for more than a minute or two, time to refill. (BTW, Green LED means system is enabled, amber means the pump is running, and red means the system is delivering water at the valve).

I might be installing my PMV for the ABS this weekend....could slow down progress. Found one off another 93 SSEi about 100 miles from here, cost me 300 bucks, but at least I get a 30 day warranty on it. This is gonna be messy. Also, I'm gonna sucker Jseabert into changing the weatherstripping on my sunroof if it gets here on time. It'* a Bonneville weekend!

$$$$ :?: I've spent about 100 bucks so far. I've gotten alot of parts out of the scrap bin at work, or off of retired machinery. Total cost of the system should have been about 250. Yes, it'* expensive, but I think it'* a better system than you can buy for 800. My time? Who cares, it keeps me busy. Like I need that.

Hey, check this quote out:

"The water/alcohol mix: Many people use methanol for the alcohol portion of their fluid, but I have found a few drawbacks. First, methonal is highly toxic and a known carcinogen. Second, it can be hard to come by. Third, it'* highly corrosive. So, I decided to use denatured alcohol which is available at the local hardware store ($7 a gallon). Denatured alcohol is ethanol with a little methanol added so you can't drink it. Although it'* still toxic, it'* far less poisonous than straight methanol. You'll probably just go blind if you drink it, but maybe you won't die. Ethanol, by the way, is just good old booze in it'* purest form. But again, don't drink denatured alcohol. For the water portion, use only distilled water. You don't want to clog the misting nozzle. You can adjust the mixture percentage as you see fit, but I recommend at least 20% water to get some of it'* cleaning and in-cylinder cooling benefits."

And look at this list:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/reference/refer.html

Okay Will it'* now OCTOBER & still no more news yet? What'* the matter, too much workload? You might want to delegate some work to Josh maybe! Like Beer Drinker, that way you can use BOTH hands to type!

Ok, wiseass.....Yes, it works, but I have a leaky shutoff valve. Been too busy working on my brakes to replace the valve. I could also use a schematic of the utility inflator circuit......wonder where I could get one of those, hmmm??? :?:

And NOW....I have a CAI on the way from Hector....so I'm gonna have to put it on hold.
I think you guys would benefit more from the timeline than my water injection, anyway.

Yeah & my HP P/N'* for that Remote LapTop Tech II software & Cables??????

Oops

I'll go look for the post.