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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 06-12-2007, 01:57 PM   #21
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Thanks for the rockers link. I have that bookmarked for if I ever decide to spend that much on this engine.

Seeing as how I don't know a whole lot about this engine, I would greatly appreciate if you could help me out with a bit more specific information on what gaskets I need.
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Old 06-12-2007, 02:17 PM   #22
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Print that list I just gave you and take it to NAPA. They guys at the back counter will have most of them in stock, and the rest within 24-48 hours.
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Old 06-12-2007, 02:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Print that list I just gave you and take it to NAPA. They guys at the back counter will have most of them in stock, and the rest within 24-48 hours.
Thanks.

How long do you figure I'll need for installation if I do it myself?
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Old 06-12-2007, 02:31 PM   #24
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4-6 hours (17 beer job) for a first-timer with a Chilton'* #28200 manual and a torque wrench in in/lbs or capable of going as low as 8 ft/lbs.
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Old 06-12-2007, 02:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
4-6 hours (17 beer job) for a first-timer with a Chilton'* #28200 manual and a torque wrench in in/lbs or capable of going as low as 8 ft/lbs.
Well I'll be doing this for the first time, but it won't be the first time I'll have worked on an engine. And I do have a torque wrench, though I don't know if it can go that low. Do I really need one?

And I have a HAYNES Part # 38010 manual. Am I good to go?
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Old 06-12-2007, 03:24 PM   #26
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The Haynes manual (I have that one also.....you'd love my library) will get you by. But I'd verify all the torque specs against the numbers listed in Techinfo (those came from Chilton'*/FSM'*).

Yes, you need a torque wrench.
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Old 06-12-2007, 03:40 PM   #27
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I can't remember if the valve cover gaskets come with the bolt grommets. If they don't, it isn't a big deal. But I got them with the rebuild kit, and they were a nice shade of blue

Word of caution: do not overtorque the valve cover bolts. They are sleeved and are meant to stop turning once the bolt bottoms out on the sleeve. I, uh, accidentally went past that point and broke that bolt. Luckilly that head was trash anyways (it was warped I later found out).
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Old 06-14-2007, 01:52 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren

Those rockers won't work with all Series 1 cylinder heads. 91-93 L27'* will have to upgrade to the 93-95 L27/L67 heads.
oh my god, my head.

i'm assuming the head casting changed to the larger rocker studs sumetime mid year, and therefore some '93 model year cars would need to upgrade whilst others would not.

is there and easy way to tell if you would need to upgrade before you tear into the motor? i ask because i am interesting in the rockers, my current car is a '93, but if i need to upgrade i'll steal the '95 head off the van before i junk it.

thanks.
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:01 AM   #29
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No, you can assume that'* a typo. 91-92 L67'* and L27'* need to upgrade to the 93 and newer heads from either engine.
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Old 10-28-2007, 11:50 PM   #30
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Alright. Rockers are installed, as are valve cover gaskets. I still need to do the LIM and TB gaskets.

Another question...

The L27 I have shifts between 5300 and 5500 RPM.

1. Would I be able to raise the redline of my engine? I'm assuming you can already change the shift points on the transmission. Can the ECM be programmed to do this? Note this is a 95 L27.

2. Does the L27 make much power past 5500 RPM? Would it be worth it? I was thinking 5800-6000 RPM as a shift point. I won't be keeping the engine for more than a year for sure, and as it is I don't have a single fluid leak anywhere. I've already installed a big transmission cooler.

Opinions?

If I were to do this, where would I take it to get the ECM programmed?
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