Turbo/L36-L67 ZZ Conversion - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 07-22-2006, 06:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
The L36 runs higher natural compression than the L67, so it puts you into a real danger zone for everyday driving. That'* how they make more power. Live with risk daily.
so the M90 is really best suited for somone who just wants track performance and doesn't drive their car daily long distances?
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Old 07-22-2006, 06:15 PM   #12
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If you think about it, 5lbs won't be bad on that L36. It won't create nearly as much heat as someone pushing 10 or 12lbs in a L67, regardless of the higher compression motor. The M90 makes a lot of heat, but spinning it slower is much more beneficial compared to L67 applications. If it'* tuned right and you use the right fuel, it'* probably not a bad setup.

There are a good chunk of GP GT'* running that M90 kit and are doing well with it.
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Old 07-22-2006, 07:33 PM   #13
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If you get a good flowing exhaust the higher compression isn't a big deal at all. The pistons on the L36 actually handle the boost better then the L67s. The rings are higher on the L67 pistons for emissions reasons i think and they are more prone to chipping than the L36s.
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Old 07-22-2006, 07:38 PM   #14
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L36'* do NOT handle the boost better. The rods are weaker and the wristpins are weaker. The pistons are also not made the same. Detonation and knock would be FAR more devastating to an L36 than an L67.
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:19 PM   #15
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There are more people chipping pistons in L67s then L36 bottom end swaps. And there are plenty of boosted L36 bottoms running around w/out problems.
Not saying everybody should go out and put a L36 bottom in a stock L67. It will knock. But get that exhuast free flowing enough and it won't be a problem.
Remeber a stock L36 block made it into the tens i/ced and boosted.
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
Remeber a stock L36 block made it into the tens i/ced and boosted.
For THOUSANDS invested. Let'* speak from a practical standpoint here. That'* what this topic is about.
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
Remeber a stock L36 block made it into the tens i/ced and boosted.
For THOUSANDS invested. Let'* speak from a practical standpoint here. That'* what this topic is about.
sorry I didn't notice the words "practicall" or "cost effective" in the orginal post.(not trying to be a wise ***, just didn't realize )

So I get from this that the bottom line is if you want boost on a budget get an SSEi, or L67 swap.

But if you've got money to blow, want top performance, and can risk some possible reliabilty issues, boost and mod a l36.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:18 PM   #18
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Well, it'* still cheaper to get the M90 kit. An L67 swap plus supporting parts and any mods you want to do to it, will cost more.

Plus, I don't see it being practical to get a new car. I for one have put a lot of hard work in to making my car nice. I wouldn't want to just give it away.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sol
Well, it'* still cheaper to get the M90 kit. An L67 swap plus supporting parts and any mods you want to do to it, will cost more.
It really depends but it could cost more. A good u-pull-it could make it cheaper.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sol
Plus, I don't see it being practical to get a new car. I for one have put a lot of hard work in to making my car nice. I wouldn't want to just give it away.
Thank you, I see it the same way. But each to his own I guess.
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