The time has come... Do GN valves work? - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 08-13-2005, 01:34 PM   #41
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I will have the information for you late this afternoon.
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Old 08-13-2005, 01:38 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssei1995
I will have the information for you late this afternoon.
Cool.



What kind of cam do we have? Flat tappet hydraulic, Roller hydraulic, Flat tappet solid, Mechanical follower, Roller solid? Why does it matter?

I'm trying to pick springs out on Summit so I have a good idea what I'm looking at when this info comes in.
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Old 08-13-2005, 01:43 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Quote:
And as for the GN pushrods working,
You mean valves?

If I actally reinstalled the head and valve train, I wouldn't be able to tell if the rods are the right length?
Yep valves.

I don't think you'll be able to tell if the pushrods are the right length just by installing everything. I think the tolerances with the lifters would be too small.
I mean I'm just saying this because of how much my lifters raised the pushrods when i uncrewed the rockers.
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Old 08-13-2005, 09:22 PM   #44
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John (jwikoff99),

Need your email address to send you the pictures.
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Old 08-13-2005, 10:12 PM   #45
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Hrm..I don't have pushrod information but the intake valves (stock) are 1.710" and the exhaust is 1.487". The GN had an intake at 1.710" but an exhaust of 1.5". Our overall intake valve length is 0.014" longer than the GN. Our exhaust is 0.009" longer. The GN exhaust valve is 0.003" larger in the stem and 0.002" larger on the intake. They both use the same single groove and seal. Close.

Keep in mind many times it'* a good idea to bore the engine to the next size up to "reset" piston clearances. Boring the engine raises the compression ratio slightly because you're still compressing it the same amount but there'* slightly more air in the cylinder.

BTW, back on the first page; the lifters from summit have the wrong picture and they're just way overpriced stockers. Amazingly over priced seeing as I can get the same exact ones (all 12) for $120. For them it comes to $164. I called them about it some time ago and they said they would change it, guess it takes a while.

The Ebay link looks like it might be a decent deal but I've never dealt with 'rebuilt' lifters.

Hope somehow this babble helps!
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Old 08-13-2005, 11:42 PM   #46
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Hello All,

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
What are the specs I should know to do that?
Try here.

Regards, Norm
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Old 08-14-2005, 01:21 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJay
Hrm..I don't have pushrod information but the intake valves (stock) are 1.710" and the exhaust is 1.487". The GN had an intake at 1.710" but an exhaust of 1.5". Our overall intake valve length is 0.014" longer than the GN. Our exhaust is 0.009" longer. The GN exhaust valve is 0.003" larger in the stem and 0.002" larger on the intake. They both use the same single groove and seal. Close.
So, I would need slightly longer pushrods or mill the heads?
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Old 08-14-2005, 02:37 AM   #48
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jwikoff99,

Check your PM and email for the pics.
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Old 08-14-2005, 05:59 PM   #49
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If valves are too big, can they be machined to ensure better clearence between intake and exhaust valves?
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:16 PM   #50
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I checked the 1.71" and 1.77" Intake valves, and also the 1.50" and 1.55" Exhaust valves on the Series 1 cylinder head.

The results are as follows:
  • 1. The 1.77" intake valve and 1.55" exhaust valve hit each other.
    2. The 1.71" intake valve can be used with the 1.55" exhaust.
    3. The 1.77" intake can be used with the 1.50" exhaust.
    • You may be able to machine the intake enough to fit the 1.77" intake valve with the 1.55" exhaust valve; however, you will make the margin of the valve thicker. The Manley valves have already a thick margin.
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