Tech Talk with NGK
#22
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Worked out fine, so far anyway. Gapped at .045".
Considering that track conditions sucked, things went well (over 100° on the track).
In comparison, I ran my car against driverjohn'* 1992 SSEi (K&N, new SC, Exhaust) the first run.
He got a 2-second head start, I ran him down and beat him by 2 lengths. There'* a 1.1 second seperation between our 2 cars on the 1/4 mile. Not bad for bolt-ons, but he'll be modding up soon, too.
Long term will tell the plug gap story. I'll pull and inspect them in 30 days.
Considering that track conditions sucked, things went well (over 100° on the track).
In comparison, I ran my car against driverjohn'* 1992 SSEi (K&N, new SC, Exhaust) the first run.
He got a 2-second head start, I ran him down and beat him by 2 lengths. There'* a 1.1 second seperation between our 2 cars on the 1/4 mile. Not bad for bolt-ons, but he'll be modding up soon, too.
Long term will tell the plug gap story. I'll pull and inspect them in 30 days.
#23
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If we end up putting all this info into a TechInfo article we need to make sure and keep the L36 adn L67 info separate, it can be hard for people to discern what is right for their cars. I had some trouble and I had some idea what I was doing, I cant imagine how confusing it can be for a newb. They need to be clearly separated.
#24
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I installed NGK TR55s the other day when I installed the Intense PCM. This of course is 1 heat range colder than stock for the L67.
I employed a couple of tricks that I was reminded of recently;
1. I used a gap of 0.052".
2. I very carefully bent the ground electrode to slighty expose part of the positive electode. Some suggest you should expose 1/3 of the electrode. You must ensure the ground electrode remains perpendicular to the the positive electrode. To do this you must straighten the electrode as it leaves the body and then use a sharper bend in the corner to maintain it as perpendicular. Be sure to remove any burrs with a file under the electrode caused by the bending.
3. I filed the corners of the ground electrode to ensure there were no sharp spots to retain heat. Do not file the underside though.
Sorry I don't have pictures, I took a few but they were way too dark.
I'll see how these plugs work out. If I make others mods I will need colder plugs again. Many people prefer the Autolite plugs over NGK. The Autolite 104s are 1 heat range colder than stock while the 103s are 2 heat ranges colder.
Cheers,
I employed a couple of tricks that I was reminded of recently;
1. I used a gap of 0.052".
2. I very carefully bent the ground electrode to slighty expose part of the positive electode. Some suggest you should expose 1/3 of the electrode. You must ensure the ground electrode remains perpendicular to the the positive electrode. To do this you must straighten the electrode as it leaves the body and then use a sharper bend in the corner to maintain it as perpendicular. Be sure to remove any burrs with a file under the electrode caused by the bending.
3. I filed the corners of the ground electrode to ensure there were no sharp spots to retain heat. Do not file the underside though.
Sorry I don't have pictures, I took a few but they were way too dark.
I'll see how these plugs work out. If I make others mods I will need colder plugs again. Many people prefer the Autolite plugs over NGK. The Autolite 104s are 1 heat range colder than stock while the 103s are 2 heat ranges colder.
Cheers,
#30
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http://www.autolite.com/tech/PlugTips.pdf
http://www.autolite.com/tech/HeatRangeFacts.pdf
http://www.autolite.com/tech/UnderstandingHeatRange.pdf
here is some info from Autolite, figured i would put it here.
http://www.autolite.com/tech/HeatRangeFacts.pdf
http://www.autolite.com/tech/UnderstandingHeatRange.pdf
here is some info from Autolite, figured i would put it here.