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Stroker Crank

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Old 10-20-2004, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 95naSTA
He said externals
so he did.... maybe I should lay off the LATE LATE night posting during the week
Old 10-20-2004, 09:06 PM
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So would a crank/rods/pistons/block from a Syclone or Typhoon bolt right under the hood of a L27/*-I L67?
I'm gonna see what I can find on-line for a good used 4.3 Turbo short block (would love a weekend with my mom gone and her Park Ultra in the shop)
And if this would work would we be looking at mandatory reprogrammed E-prom'*?
Old 10-21-2004, 01:06 AM
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uhhhhhhh if it'* a stroker motor... they aren't stock internals
I said Externals. Heads, Intake, Block and exhaust. Basically I'm saying the stock stuff would work. Maybe not well, but they would work. What are valve\cam specs on a 4.3 liter GM ?
One thing to note. Most of the stroker kits I have seen put the ring lands down into the wrist pins. Works great for a while, but rings don't like to be unsupported. Also,
most strokers put extreme side loads on the pistons. I wonder if this one does ?


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Old 10-21-2004, 03:01 PM
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Once again i sense an idea being shot down. I just looked at a 4.3L block at my uncles shop, and it looks strikingly similar to the 3800.

Apparently, like i said, the blocks are almost the same, according to his past experience anyway. I dont know maybe hes wrong because someone else will think they are right. who knows!

But anyway, apparently the crank is interchangeable with a few modifications. The connecting rod journals are all in the right places. The modifications would include cylinder head spacers, and longer pushrods would be needed as it would push the piston through the head and into the valves. Also a little bottom end work might be needed but we haven't got there yet.

~Matt
Old 10-21-2004, 08:36 PM
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Naah man I'm not putting anything down. Heck I was the first guy that showed interest.
My points I made are valid. ANy engine modification is a compromise.
It'* just a matter of how much you want to compromise. By discussing it in an open forum you get ALL points of view. The good the bad and the ugly.
A good rodder then takes all that information and formulates his own opinion.
Nobody knows everything about everything. It'* about having respect for the folks who have tried it before, and having confidence in your abilities.

JLathem
Old 10-21-2004, 08:53 PM
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So is the aussie crank that drjay showed, the 4.3l crank?
Old 10-21-2004, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by matt95ssei
Once again i sense an idea being shot down. I just looked at a 4.3L block at my uncles shop, and it looks strikingly similar to the 3800.

Apparently, like i said, the blocks are almost the same, according to his past experience anyway. I dont know maybe hes wrong because someone else will think they are right. who knows!

But anyway, apparently the crank is interchangeable with a few modifications. The connecting rod journals are all in the right places. The modifications would include cylinder head spacers, and longer pushrods would be needed as it would push the piston through the head and into the valves. Also a little bottom end work might be needed but we haven't got there yet.

~Matt
No he must be right because you think he is...anyway.

The 4.3l crank has 2.25" rod journals while the 3800 has 2.10". The 3800 has a 3.4" stroke while the 4.3 has a 3.48" stroke. Not sure how much damage this would cause to the heads, especially considering the crank I posted above has a 3.77" stroke and no mention of a "head spacer."

What bottom end work did you have in mind?
Old 10-21-2004, 09:52 PM
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head spacers, and longer pushrods would be needed as it would push the piston through the head and into the valves.
Head spacers ? The usual method is to use stock or similar style rods and move the wrist pins up. My only experience with strokers has been 350 with a 400 crank creating a 383 , and a 302 with an eagle crank making a 312 or a 345.
The 345 definately moves the wrist pin up into the ring lands. No matter what you do you can't have a piston popping up much over block height.

JLathem
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