Yes, there is just a snap ring holding it in place. Tap the snap ring with a screwdriver and hammer and it will break loose and the diff will come right out.
I don't know what kind of power you are making but as long as you aren't really beating the crap out of it around corners or something, you should be okay. The diff in the 440t4's isn't any stronger than the 4t60e diff, yet all the guys (including me) on the TGP forums are putting out around 330-340wtq. at right around 3000rpms and I've heard of nobody breaking those. Usually its an Input/Output shaft or clutches slipping before the diff goes. Not that its a bad idea to beef up your diff, because it definately isn't, but as long as you only go WOT in a straight line the chances of it breaking should be a lot more slim. Shawn |
Broken Diff's on the SSEi's are fairly common when the mileage is high, and so is the power.
Shawn, you have to remember that we make our Tq at a much lower RPM than a TGP or a Series 2, and that we also have a heavier car. These two factors will kill a Diff faster than anything. |
Originally Posted by willwren
Broken Diff's on the SSEi's are fairly common when the mileage is high, and so is the power.
Shawn, you have to remember that we make our Tq at a much lower RPM than a TGP or a Series 2, and that we also have a heavier car. These two factors will kill a Diff faster than anything. Shawn |
Seires I 3800 SC is 2600 Rpms for the torque peak... ( 92-93 )
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Yup. 2600 92/93, 2800 94/95 IIRC.
Why we snap diffs in half, and why we can easily achieve low 60' times. |
I looked it up and it appears that it was 205hp @ 4400 & 260ft.lbs. @ 2800rpm for 92-93. Don't know how reliable the source is, but sounds good. I don't know if a pulley and intake and all that would lower the torque peak, but I would doubt it, it seems like it would raise it if anything unless a pulley brings the M62 too far out of its efficiency range. But anyways, with a pulley what kind of torque would it be making, like 300 crank ft.lbs.? I doubt it would be much more than that, maybe 320ft.lbs. AT MOST.
If that is the case, it is still making less than the TGP's are at those rpms. A guy that just dynoed his TGP a few weeks ago made 290wtq. at 2600rpms (peak was 336 wtq. at 2900rpm). You can see this dyno here: (he has a bad TPS sensor which is why you see the dip in the chart) http://www.tgpforums.com/tgp/images/...DynoJan_06.jpg Another guy put out 310wtq. at 2600rpms and his peak torque was 326wtq. at 2800rpm. See his dyno here: http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/dyno3.jpg The only thing is is that both of these cars are 5 speed cars (since in an Auto TGP you can't get accurate torque numbers due to the torque convertor not being locked up at rpms that low). So you have to figure 15% loss instead of 20%. For some reason I'm not believing that there are any Series I L67's here making that kind of torque at those rpms....but i could be wrong...anyone have any dyno sheets? Shawn |
My diff shiaft was snapped, but the shaft never left its intended position, how I don't know, but good throttle in a turn made it sound like a detroit locker.
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As long as you are only going strait when you go WOT and when you are turning you are not jumping on it - the stock diff should be fine. 95% of higher mileage stock diffs fail because they don't do that.
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from say a 20mph if i nail the throttle it downshifts hard and breaks loose.
i love it dont want to destroy that diff though |
The LN3 makes its torque at 2800 and hp at 4400... Not sure why those numbers are crossed...
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