Stock Open Diff
 

Well, mine is still original from the sounds of it :shock:
BUT i have more than enough resources to rebuild it and do whatever to it so it doesnt freaking break, aka that weak ass roll pin holding the pinion shaft in the case assembly..
Looking at my fsm, it doesnt look TO bad to remove.
Looks to me like
Remove CV shaft from extension housing,
un bolt and remove extension housing..
Then from there how would the diff come out..?
There has to be a better design in place of that roll pin..I know most chev rear diffs used a lock screw, much stronger design.
Im not looking for an LSD, as, there are only a few available and for lotsa $$$.
Guys i wanna rebuild mine before it goes BOOM.

anyone? :lol:

LOL...apparently not :shock:

Have you done any internet research? There has to be someone who has some insight? (it certainly ain't me :oops: )

god your car looks good in your sig
anyways, yeah, im gunna do some reasearch ask some more people at work

Haha...Thanks, but I think your just seeing the sunshine behind the car and it is affecting your thought process during this time of year.

Well, unless someonehas some better ideas here, please share what you learn at your shop. Maybe it will get the ideas flowing, here.

exactly. The main weakness folks appears to be that stupid roll pin...

Or the Pinion shaft itself.

You either break the roll pin so the pinion shaft can move in and out of the cage, or you break the shaft itself. John Wikoff and I both did that. I think Gordy did too.

Odds are about 50/50 that if you break the shaft, the diff will explode parts out the case. If you lose the pin only, you'll probably know something is wrong long before the condition gets terminal.

Keep in mind that the three Series 1 L67's that are known to have sheared the SHAFT were putting down at a bare minimum 94/95 pulleyed power. Which is basically Series 2 power, but at a lower RPM (more dangerous), and with less torque management in the PCM.

as far as removing that bad boy and rebuilding it myself..feasable?
i think so

Yes. It's in your FSM. Most S2 owners can install an LSD on their own. You know a couple personally that have. ;)

awesome..looks like there is only a snap ring holding the output shaft in the cage..something to think about and do.

Yes, there is just a snap ring holding it in place. Tap the snap ring with a screwdriver and hammer and it will break loose and the diff will come right out.

I don't know what kind of power you are making but as long as you aren't really beating the crap out of it around corners or something, you should be okay. The diff in the 440t4's isn't any stronger than the 4t60e diff, yet all the guys (including me) on the TGP forums are putting out around 330-340wtq. at right around 3000rpms and I've heard of nobody breaking those. Usually its an Input/Output shaft or clutches slipping before the diff goes.

Not that its a bad idea to beef up your diff, because it definately isn't, but as long as you only go WOT in a straight line the chances of it breaking should be a lot more slim.

Shawn

Broken Diff's on the SSEi's are fairly common when the mileage is high, and so is the power.

Shawn, you have to remember that we make our Tq at a much lower RPM than a TGP or a Series 2, and that we also have a heavier car. These two factors will kill a Diff faster than anything.

I know the Series I makes its torque sooner than the Series II but I didn't think it was that much sooner. Where does it peak at? I thought it was in the 3500+rpm range? Yes, obviously torque at lower rpms and with more weight is going to put more stress on it. But either way the 3000rpms that the TGP's torque peak is is pretty low and does put a lot of stress on the differential.

Shawn

Seires I 3800 SC is 2600 Rpms for the torque peak... ( 92-93 )

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Yup. 2600 92/93, 2800 94/95 IIRC.

Why we snap diffs in half, and why we can easily achieve low 60' times.

I looked it up and it appears that it was 205hp @ 4400 & 260ft.lbs. @ 2800rpm for 92-93. Don't know how reliable the source is, but sounds good. I don't know if a pulley and intake and all that would lower the torque peak, but I would doubt it, it seems like it would raise it if anything unless a pulley brings the M62 too far out of its efficiency range. But anyways, with a pulley what kind of torque would it be making, like 300 crank ft.lbs.? I doubt it would be much more than that, maybe 320ft.lbs. AT MOST.

If that is the case, it is still making less than the TGP's are at those rpms. A guy that just dynoed his TGP a few weeks ago made 290wtq. at 2600rpms (peak was 336 wtq. at 2900rpm). You can see this dyno here: (he has a bad TPS sensor which is why you see the dip in the chart) http://www.tgpforums.com/tgp/images/...DynoJan_06.jpg

Another guy put out 310wtq. at 2600rpms and his peak torque was 326wtq. at 2800rpm. See his dyno here: http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/dyno3.jpg

The only thing is is that both of these cars are 5 speed cars (since in an Auto TGP you can't get accurate torque numbers due to the torque convertor not being locked up at rpms that low). So you have to figure 15% loss instead of 20%.

For some reason I'm not believing that there are any Series I L67's here making that kind of torque at those rpms....but i could be wrong...anyone have any dyno sheets?

Shawn

My diff shiaft was snapped, but the shaft never left its intended position, how I don't know, but good throttle in a turn made it sound like a detroit locker.

As long as you are only going strait when you go WOT and when you are turning you are not jumping on it - the stock diff should be fine. 95% of higher mileage stock diffs fail because they don't do that.

from say a 20mph if i nail the throttle it downshifts hard and breaks loose.
i love it
dont want to destroy that diff though

The LN3 makes its torque at 2800 and hp at 4400... Not sure why those numbers are crossed...

With the old days, in the 3.8 it was very easy to attain 280ft lbs NA'd

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Shawn, the bottom line is this:

We're making GOOD torque LOW down in a HEAVY car. We break Pinion shafts, and you don't.

Tell me why? (And no, John Wikoff, SSEi95, and myself are not in the habit of one wheel wonder burnouts). And we're not the only ones. There have been other failures.

You break pinion shafts because you go WOT around corners. Not saying you do this often, it only takes once. If you did it in a straight line, something else should break first. The input shaft or input sprag should go before the diff, with my experience anyways. I know you guys are breaking them, I just don't see how with proper usage they could be breaking like yours are. Yes, your cars are heavier (what do they weigh 3600 or 3700lbs compared to my 3450lb. GP?) and that can definately be a factor in it, but other than that being a cause I think its just improper usage.

In a straight line there should be no reason for there to be any stress on the roll pin.

Shawn

My car was owned by a retired couple before me. Original owners. No local family to abuse their car. I bought it at 65k miles. I do NOT do burnouts in a turn, nor have I ever. Those that know me personally here can vouch for it. I can also tell you J Wikoff doesn't either.

We're not talking improper use, bud. We're talking weakend over time. Mine failed at 110k.

The Units parked behind the Caddy 4.9's seemed to fail at the same rate... I forget weather or not they did damage to the roll pin... But a few of those units were full of metal... and the cheapest rebuild was $2500 :roll:

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Did I say you were doing burnouts during a turn? I don't believe I did. I said going WOT while turning. This could mean a curve on the interstate while your WOT. Anytime you're going WOT you should be going in a straight line, any turning is what causes this to happen, this is what I'm saying.

I would hope you don't do burnouts through corners...