what else do I need before putting on the 3.2, pem'*? anything else?

I would say look as the level 3 performance package. Even then you may not be able to run a 3.2" You will need to scan your car for KR. Another thing that I belive was mentioned. You better look at upgrading yoru tranny. At the VERY least you shoudl have teh high performance shift kit. What tranny you have in your car? Is it a HD tranny? If not then you better look real hard at upgrading it before you have no choice.

i thought all supercharged regals had hd transmission'*

They do.

Even with a HD tranny you should install a shift kit. This will speed up the shifts, and drop KR. And when you start getting to the point where you can use a 3.2" pulley, your still going to have to upgrade things like your input shaft and torque converter. That'* a lot of strain on the tranny.

As long as the hard launches and downshifts are kept to a minimum a stock HD trans can hold up just fine in a mid 13sec W-body. Just roll on the throttle instead of stabbing it. A shift kit is still highly recommended, as the shorter and firmer shifts translate to less slippage. If you're hard on the car though, or plan on a bit of track time, look into having the trans built in the near future.

Well, since I'm the one who going to be doing all the work on BoostinGS'* car, how difficult is the valve spring installation with the heads on the car? I'd hate to drop a valve into the engine and have to take the head off, that would really suck.

I thought I remember reading the you just need to work each cylinder at a time, and make sure that cylinder is it at TDC so the valve won't drop into the engine. Is this how everyone does it, and how successful is this method? Is there some other way that I'm missing?

I assume that even at TDC, the valve will drop a little into the engine. Does this create any difficulty compressing the spring enough to get it on the valve. Can anyone share some insight as to how easy or hard it is to get a valve spring compressor on each spring with all the other crap on the car in the way?

Thanks.

Hope this helps. this is when I did mine.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...929&highlight=

Any questions, just ask.

Having the cylinder at TDC has nothing to do with the valve not dropping too far. You do that to use an air chuck threaded the same as a spark plug to pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves up.

You can also stuff the cylinders with string to keep them up, or if you're VERY careful you can hold them while you disassemble with a magnet, then tie-wrap them up. I've used all 3 methods, and the string has the least risk, followed by air (assuming you even have a compressor), with the magnet method is the riskiest. I HAVE been able to get a dropped valve back up with a smaller diameter magnet, but the only reason I even risked that was because the heads were coming off anyway.

Oh, so I was overlooking something easy. Compressed air. Duh, I have a compress and a compression tester set with the right adapters to get the job done. That makes me feel a lot better. I should really try thinking sometimes.

Maybe if I get the engine at TDC then add the air pressure it won't more off TDC and I'll have twice the protection, but I doubt that would work too well with my luck, although I know it'* possible.

Thanks for the link, Danthurs. It helps. You didn't mention how you held the valves up, but then i saw the air hose and the cylinder adapter in the fourth picture Now I feel good about the whole thing. I hate to rush into something and then screw up big time.

Thanks for the help everyone.