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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 12-16-2007, 12:07 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
The black body theory holds water. A black car will get hot quicker than a white car.

Put them in the garage, and the black car will also cool down quicker.

The color matters. Black absorbs all kinds of radiation, including heat. Notice the stealth aircraft in the US military are black? They absorb radiation. Radar. Every little bit helps.

Go read the topic linked in my first post here.
Good tech, Will!

I love wrinkle finish, it'* an 80'* thing! Everything was wrinkle finish in the 80'* v.c'*, intakes, even headers got jet hot wrinkle finish! The cool thing was Pontiac M/T v.c'* with black wrinkle paint and the top of the fins polished! I had a set on my 77 GP!

You brought up one of the biggest misconception: black cars get hotter than other colors! The inside of two identical cars, one black and one white, will be the exact same temp as each other istting side-by-side in a hot summer parking lot! The reason the black car burns the hell out of your hand is b/c the black is more radiant (reflective) and the surface temp is therefore higher! I have been debating this for YEARS with people til I am blue in the face! Why do you think radiators are painted black? And why GM went to all semi-flat black engine paint in 1981? Parts run cooler when they are painted black, and not gloss or flat, but a specific semi-flat.

Will, cudos for taking a proven "technology" and applying it in a way no one else thought of, not even me!

I just wish it wasn;t too late to paint mine! I pulled the darn thing about 7 times, I ain't pullin'er agin'!
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:36 AM   #22
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The current SC on the Zilla will be going to the 95 SLE in the spring.

I'll be coating another SC for the Zilla (with some other changes) as well as a GenV for another member (getting ported and polished). I'll use the same recipe on both.

I've had this for almost a year, and I know for a fact it cools off faster. Anyone remember all the temperature strips I had on the other SC? That one is on the SLE now. Makes it easy to compare uncoated to coated.
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:46 AM   #23
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pontiacjeff, I believe that willwren is saying the same thing you are. You may just be dealing in semantics. I'm pretty sure (from the way he described it) that Will understands it the same as you.

The bottom line, a black SC will typically run cooler than a different color.

But there is still a fly in the ointment... Just because a color looks black in the visible spectrum, doesn't mean it is "black" in infra-red. Generally it is true, but not necessarily. Have you ever seen the "window" on the front of the IR camera in a FLIR gimbal? it is opaque to visible light but transparent in IR.
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:39 AM   #24
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Optical coatings can do alot of funky things. But the primary method of cooling here isn't the color.

The supercharger had large cooling fins before. Now it has thousands more tiny fins to go with it.
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:49 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Optical coatings can do alot of funky things. But the primary method of cooling here isn't the color.

The supercharger had large cooling fins before. Now it has thousands more tiny fins to go with it.
VERY good point
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:20 AM   #26
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So even though the original OEM coating is still there...basically this coating has given the supercharger maybe 2x the surface area for cooling because of all the little peaks?

Would it be even better to go the extra mile to completely remove all the OEM coating? Or is it just as good a heat transfer medium as bare metal?
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:37 AM   #27
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Based on my tests back in March, I'd have to make some conclusions:

1. If normal black paint was worse than OEM coating, and the wrinkle paint is better than the OEM coating, the OEM coating at the very least is not preventing the wrinkle coat from working, and must therefore be a decent heat conductor (which we've assumed for years). What SC manufacturer would put an insulative coating on a SC?

2. OEM coating is very well bonded and very difficult to remove. So it must have very good surface contact/bonding. Removing it would force you to fully rebuild it, including all bearings. It would be very difficult to seal off the bearings in the rotor plate. So difficult to strip as well, that I'm not willing to do it to my old 'checkerboard' test housing in order to compare to my spare. A real PITA.

3. This coating on top of OEM coating was proven in the 'lab' and the real world.




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Good enough for me. And keep in mind, comparing to the valve covers that have no under-coating won't work, as the mass of the two parts would be totally different. My 'wrinkle' effect is also much better on my SC and valvecovers than on the test unit. My techniques have been refined a bit.
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Old 12-16-2007, 02:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkjet
pontiacjeff, I believe that willwren is saying the same thing you are. You may just be dealing in semantics. I'm pretty sure (from the way he described it) that Will understands it the same as you.
Yes, I know. I was agreeing with HIM! I used the example of the two cars to make the point in another way, one which has been commonly misunderstood for decades.
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Old 12-17-2007, 04:47 AM   #29
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I just have to throw in my 2 cents before this grows to 14 pages or so. I've been waiting for this to be revealed for so long! Thanks a whole lot, Will. You are awesome!

And this seems to have come along quite well without my input... A rarity.
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Old 12-17-2007, 09:51 AM   #30
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I'll have to get some of this stuff....
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