I'll be getting a set of Brembo rotors and raybestos ceramics for the front this fall.

They aren't slotted or drilled, but they're about as bombproof as can be. I've read some things on slotted/drilled rotors, and neither will benefit anyone really, no matter how hard you drive it'* still a street car.

I've got Ceramic Pads from Auto Value on my SLE with the premium rotors (little tiny slots that criss-cross). After 2,700 miles since I installed them 3 weeks ago I have no wear, no visible brake dust, no brake fade, and the rotors look like they did on day 1. I've been doing some heavy braking (hitting the brakes at 70 mph with as much force as I can put on them and the ABS is activating on the dry pavement. I also have premium NAPA rear brake shoes in the new rear brake drums and the car stops like nothing I ever known before). My face and chest are practically this red after I've come to a stop. Then my face turns to this

I don't know if this is true for rotors.. but I know it is on flywheels [new ones at least]. you need to clean thoroughly with some brake cleaner to take off some factory coating.. so yeah, clean the rotors with brake cleaner real good. Correct me if i'm wrong here people.


-justin

You're right. It protects them from corrosion.

I would be interested to know what you find. I love my RSM'* and Bendix ceramic pads but I think I damaged the RSM'* on the way down to Virginia last month. Lots of hard stop-and-go from 70MPH in rainshowers. I had new tires put on the day before the trip and I'm not confident that the tire shop torqued the lug nuts evenly, so that could also be the reason.

I just found this article by someone who claims that warped rotors are a myth and the problem is usually due to pad material being deposited unevenly on the rotor. He also says that when breaking in rotors, you should decelerate to 5MPH and NOT come to a full stop (or at least not hold down the brake after a full stop) because the pad will get imprinted on the rotor.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

Here is another VERY detailed perspective on rotor warpage:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/archive...o=&fpart=1.htm

Anyone that tells you H-body rotor warping is a myth is either a fool, or my car is the only one doing it.



I warped my stockers. I warped my RSM'* (and I carry a calibrated torque wrench in my trunk for the lugs....some of you have personally seen it). My RSM'* were actually turnable the first time they warped. I doubt they are this time.

I put these rotors on the machine at the tire shop myself, or I take them to work to turn on the lathe. I checked runout myself the first 2 times. They warped. I can understand the 'don't stop' trick in theory, but in reality, if a hardened steel rotor is sensitive enough to care if the pad came to a full stop during breakin, I'll give up beer for a day.

Lug torque MAY be a direct contributor to warpage, but it'* not the only cause, as I've proven.

I can see fully stopping during break in being a problem. They're being heated for the first time, and aren't cured for the conditions yet. Very suceptable to that kinda junk. After I had mine turned last august they were fine till the trip to canada. This was the last turn for them (so they're thinner, and easier to warp) and we had a lot of panic stops in the rain. Hitting puddles and snow with searing hot rotors is a

All cars go thru them, our 98 Yukon (80k) has gone through 4 sets of brakes now. Some were supposed to be better.

I'm in need of brakes too and have been tossing the slotted rotor idea around. I live in a mountainous area with lots of sharp corners and heavy braking.
Thought I would 'upgrade' to slotted rotors but not sure if this is the answer?

I agree wheek torque is important, and could be the root cause of poor brake performance.

The slots are only on race cars for expanding gas from brake pads. Your car couldn't reach those brake temps to cause that (your brakes would fade to black) they do provide some cooling, but it'* marginal at best. They will wear pads quicker. Slots that extend to the complete edge of the rotor are bad, as they can cause cracking.

Drilled holes will bite better initially, but they will wear fast. And ONLY buy cast holes, not actually drilled, as they cause microscopic fractures that will be enlarged from the rotor'* heat cycle.

The best bet for a street car is a hardened material compared to OE rotors. Slots may benefit, and holes do have merits, but both have downsides, and the benefits won't really be noticable. They do look nice, and have applications, but these are just street cars, and relatively mild ones at that.

Jason, you're right on some of this, but not all. My experience with slotted rotors is that they're superior for street use, and you want the slots to reach the edge. My RSM'* have never cracked. The slots were EDM'd in the blanks BEFORE hardening. That'* the key. Your slots won't shed water or gasses effectively if the slot is terminated before the edge of the rotor. I won't put non-slotted rotors on my car ever again, and they will go to the edge. Wet braking is dramatically improved, as is cooling, because you can vent the hot gasses out immediately. Wearing out pads? Not ceramic bud.

I agree with the crossdrilled item you mentioned. They're worthless, and can be dangerous on street cars unless they're cast. Drilled holes are bad news.