The tubing that I got from INTENSE was $12 a foot so I paid about $36 for it.
I think the biggest worry I had when I started thinking about this was indeed the water issue, however the actual problem that I have run into after driving it for a while, is that you have to clean the filter a lot more often.

One thing to remember about how much power I gained from switching to the FWI, is that in the process I switched to a pipe that was almost an inch larger than what I'd had.
Also, remember that our throttle bodies and intakes run directly over the cross-pipe on our exhaust. After a long run, the metal screen in my filter was hot enough to burn you, so the air going through had to be getting heated pretty good. Now with the rubber pipe, the intake is cool to the touch right up to the TB.
As far as looks go, yeah, the thing is butt-ugly, but I'm far more worried about how well it works than how it looks.

Ha... I'm not the only GP lost in here....

And yes like the others said the IMHO the FWI is nice, but there is a much longer distance for the air to travel and more material to get hot. Also the BTH (Behind The Headlight © ) Gets alot better performance at the track when you pop out the headlight. Not to mention you can put an ice bag on the entire intake as well as the SC. Plastic does get hot. Every little bit helps i think...

However if you do choose the FWI, remember if you dont want to worry about killing the car when you hit a puddle you have to add the "sponge thing" (I forget what its called) some where along the tube. This in my eyes is a huge restriction.

All using ice seems to do for us is make a mess. After a run the blower is cool to the touch so how much are we honestly gonna cool it down with ice? Not only that but the water gets everywhere and can cause the belt to slip. I would imagine it would do even less good in the intake. We used a bag once after one run, but decided it wasn't worth it and haven't used one since. The car seems to run pretty well without it.

Shawn

Well, I guess that would only be true for some of us... Me and my friends have to drive about 100 miles to the track so the engine bays do get a little hot. But regardless after two runs the engine is going to be hot (counting in the engines work in stop and go through the line to the track twice, two burn outs, 1/2 a mile drive pedal to the medal, and 1/2 a mile drive in return total)

Saddly hood up or not, my cars engine bay will not be cool enough to touch in less than an hour after a long drive. Is it a Bonn Vs GP temp thing :?:

We have to drive about 75 miles to the track and we always "break them in" on the way there if you know what i mean. But the heat in the engine bay is due to some mods on the GP. The coated headers can be touched with your hands within a minute or two of turning the engine off. The insulated airbox doesn't let whatever hot air there is in the engine bay get to it, as temps are usually within 2-3 degrees of ambient, and the ported blower does not get anywhere near as hot as non-ported ones. Not only that but with a drilled 160 t-stat and an electric water pump the engine doesn't get very hot anyways. From what I remember when the GTP was closer to stock, the engine bay heat was similar.

Shawn

Must have to do with the air in the blower (as for it being ported or not)... My GTP is not near having the mods to running the times in your sig, just a couple of base boltons, yet I do have an undrilled 160 degree thermostat, and the car is keeping cooler than it was before obviously.

What I'm getting at is that for cars with out sufficient "ideal" modifications, or some one just starting to mod their cars the temp can be a bigger problem. Since this person is asking about which intake to get they sound like they are in the begining stages of bolt-ons. And thus woul not have something like a ported supercharger, IC, or coated headers.

a good thing to get rid of heat in the engine bay is to use ducting that begins under the front of the car and blows over the SC and another that goes into the intake. Ask Bill about his setup.

Who is bill? I want to know more about this.

You're right I don't have a ported supercharger, considering I don't have one at all

Unless you set the ice on the blower for a long time, it isn't going to cool it down much. It might cool down the outside, but there is so much mass there that you're never gonna get the rotors and all that cooled down, and like I said the water from the ice could potentially cost belt slip or something like that. Not only that, but on a closer to stock car like yours, your not really going to be cooling the blower down much anyways because the fuel rails kinda get in the way. If you want to cool down anything its the middle of the blower, which you can't access with the stock fuel rail there.

An insulated CAI is going to be your best option for performance as far as temperature and flow is concerned. If insulated properly it should keep intake air temps within a few degrees of ambient and ice isn't gonna do you much good.

The heat resistant mods we have the GTP do help a lot, as I would hope otherwise they would've been kinda pointless, but it is basically the same for a L67 without these mods.

Shawn