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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 04-26-2006, 06:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
PVC is commonly shaped and bent with boiling water. That'* at a temperature pretty darn close to the temps directly above the crossover pipe.

Now how are you going to make a smooth bend radius without fittings that will induce turbulence at the joints? That turbulence kills velocity.

How are you going to bend it to make the turn to the TB without having it relax later?

Check my engine bay pic. You see where the cooling duct for the SC/TB is? Mounted to the upper radiator support? It used to have more of a bend, and was mounted closer to the center (crossed over just about where the oil cap is). It relaxed to it'* current shape from heat from the front EM collector.

A soft pvc intake in a hot environment is asking for disaster. Particularly if it gets TOO hot in summer.
water boils at 215f at sea lvl if i remember correctly. the pipe would sit over 6 inches away from the front header pipe at it'* closest point. the stock exhaust has a heat shield on it. even with headers i would not worry at all. i would be surprised if the air at their closest point would get to over 175 with the hood down.
and as i'v seen members on here do they simply insulate your pipe which isn't a bad idea anyways. which you can conveniently get at home depot.

look in this pic:
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2.../P10105971.jpg

you keep that black rubber from the stock intake right at the throttle body. that gives you play for when the engine moves and also lets you bend it in such a straight pipe can go into the fender wall. also i think you guys have a IAT in the black thing and it saves you from threading a hole in the pvc. that looks like the pipe would be at least 6 inches if not further away from the hot pipe. i think if that if the pipe could heat up the pvc to 215 or even close to it with the hood down you would have other things failing 1st.
and if you were to insulate the pipe i think you would golden.

i wouldn't call pvc soft even at 150f.

is my logic flawed?
$20 or less at home depot + $40 K&N= cheap fwi. and reliable as far as i can see.
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:48 PM   #12
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PVC is not a good material to make an intake out of. I'm not sure about the validity of this, but I've read that PVC breaks down when heated and can give off chlorine gas.

I made an intake for my car from a 3" mandrel-bent U-bend that I ordered from summit and after a little cutting and fitting, it very closely resembles an ADTR CAI. The bend was $19 or so, about what you said the PVC for the project would cost.
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:51 PM   #13
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Nismo, I've had PVC under my hood and STILL DO. My PVC is farther from the front exhaust manifold than an intake would be from the crossover pipe. That means an intake would be HOTTER, and my NOT AS HOT pvc cooling duct softened and relaxed it'* radius by about a half within 3 days.

My EXPERIENCE with it in a Bonneville should count for something, shouldn't it?

You want SMOOTH inner surfaces for high-velocity laminar flow on top of that. A single joint will disrupt this flow.

If you want to use pvc in your Maxima, that'* your perogative, and it may be more conducive to it. A Bonneville is NOT. And No, I'm not the only member here that believes PVC is a very poor choice for an intake in a Bonneville.

In our application, a gutted stock airbox would be better than PVC.
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:05 PM   #14
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i use an injen. shiny little guy. it makes a ferocious noise. i think i paid more for the noise then the horsepower...
mind sending me a link to store bought intakes for your cars i'm curious how they route the pipes?

in response to cwynn6:
thats a nice way to do it. if i had a bonnie thats how i would probably do it. but it'* double the cost of my way, which was you basic argument. and mine would be covered in insulation and imo have a lower inner air temp then the steel pipe would.
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:10 PM   #15
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[quote="NismoMax"]i use an injen. shiny little guy. it makes a ferocious noise. i think i paid more for the noise then the horsepower...
mind sending me a link to store bought intakes for your cars i'm curious how they route the pipes?

[quote]

We don't have any dedicated intakes. We usually take a ricer pipe and cut about 2" off. There is no routing to speak of. It turns and goes toward the headlight. Very simple, one gradual bend. For the price of an Autozone Civic intake pipe, it pretty much blows away the PVC argument.

I run a custom intake pipe that was developed for our cars, but never put into production.
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:26 PM   #16
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The FWI from: http://www.intense-racing.com/ has anyone used it? the 'hose' they use seems very turbulant. is it smooth inside?
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:28 PM   #17
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It is smooth inside, an yes, many run it. However, the filter is only truly protected from the elements in the 2000 and newer body style. The fender skirting is much better for an FWI in the 2k'* than the 87-91'*.
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Old 04-26-2006, 10:28 PM   #18
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I used to have a PVC intake, wrapped with reflectix. I swapped to the "rice pipe" in attempt to cure some pretty severe heat soak related KR. I wrapped it in the same reflectix from the leftovers of the same roll.

IT LOWERED MY IAT READINGS BY 25* after it was fully warmed up on a hot day. I considered that plenty of justification to keep the pipe.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:45 AM   #19
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It seems pretty simple to me...yeah you save a little bit of money on the PVC, but it'* plastic v.*. metal. When metal heats up you get hot metal...when plastic heats up you get byproducts. I for one wouldn't want those gases forced into my engine.
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Old 04-28-2006, 12:44 AM   #20
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OK.....Well I was gonna ask about "Coil Packs" ........ I will if you promise not to Kill each other over it.

ken
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