It looks cool, and not overly expensive (which explains why I bought it).

I'm such a tease.

i know what it is.....im not allowed to tell.....and this should be cool to see how it works out, you have me interested

I'm impressed mostly with their claims, secondly with the affordability.

They claim 98% reflectivity of radiated heat. It'll be hard to discern radiated from heatsoaked (coming from the TB end), but all in all, it should be quite obvious whether it'* effective or not.

I'll put a thermocouple under my insulation that I have now and start the car from cold and let it idle for 5min, and take a reading. I'll repeat it with the bare pipe, then again with the new gizmo.

Ok, this is interesting. Right off the bat (between yesterday and today taking temp readings after driving and letting it soak in the heat AFTER driving), I can tell you to use NOTHING that insulates in any way whatsoever. Use ONLY a material that REFLECTS heat away from the intake.

When heatsoak occurs, insulative materials trap the heat in the intake pipe. With my 'reflective insulation' from Home Depot Auto Parts, my intake pipe temps 10 minutes after shutting down from a commute in 85° temps were 120°, because the insulation prevented the pipe from cooling down after the radiant heat penetrated my protection.

This is in spite of TWO crossover pipe heatshields and hood vents. I'd bet most stock applications or would be worse. An exposed intake pipe may very well have been better, considering that my unprotected data cooled off quicker WITHOUT the insulation.

NOW I've installed the new product which does not insulate, but only reflects. The car is cooling off right now for another run in order to take new temp measurements.

I have found thru much experimentation that you need to reflect the heat and insulate/isolate the air filter from the engine compartment. That is why the FWI systems are the most effective solution.

During cooler weather it maintains an IAT about 5 F above ambient but as it heats up to 80 F the IAT is closer to 90 F.

For my cool box I have had to increase the total thickness to about 2" by multilayering the 1/4" thick reflective plastic bubble insulation and use a duct to route outside air into it during running conditions.

When the engine is off in heat soak conditions, the temp will unavoidably increase but it will not get over 120 F when the engine bay temp rises to 160 F.

Here'* my data, which completely backs up your post, Paul:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=609849#609849

Well, that is interesting....

Never gave it that much thought, but it makes sense.

Leads me to two questions though.

Why is the reflective wrap any better than a polished (therefore reflective) bare pipe?

and

Would a simple wrapping with (reflective) aluminum duct tape do the same thing? If not, why not?

OK, so that'* three questions.

Look at my data to show that it IS better (if you choose the right wrap to begin with). Because it slows down the inevitable heatsoak condition, and allows you to recover from it more quickly when it does happen.

Maybe, maybe not. Will it allow the heat to escape after heatsoak? Depends on the product. You'd have to do some testing like I did. The stuff I have now from Thermo-Tec is specifically designed to reflect radiant heat AND allow any heat that does get in to be dissipated more quickly.

The offer still stands but, based on the results of Will'* testing I would recomend against it.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=54883

OK, I'll buy those answers. I certainly don't have any reason, data, nor inclination to disagree, lol.

I do know, from last night'* scanning sessions, that the stock box and accordian tube DO heat soak quite a bit and seem to take a while to get back down to temp. After setting in the driveway for 30 minutes or so, most of that time with the hood up, the intake air was at still at 115. It really didn't cool down much, to about 104 during my test run around town (6 miles total). Ambient air was around 88.