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Old 08-18-2002, 11:51 PM   #1
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Default Rear sway bar bushings

Hope you don't mind, but I have a '96 Olds 88 LS, which is basically the same car as the Bonnies, suspension and powertrain wise, anyhow.
I was wondering if anyone has tried putting polyurethane bushings in the rear sway bar, not in the end links, but in the two middle bushings that hold the bar in place?
Do you have part numbers or sizes? I'm planning on replacing the end links with poly bushings, but it would be even better to do the 2 middle bushings as well.
Thanks for this forum, it'* been great.
I've taken off my MAF screen, and opened up the air box behind the filter, and it'* helped the engine a bit.
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Old 08-19-2002, 04:23 AM   #2
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Personally I feel the more H body people getting together the better.

TY
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Old 08-20-2002, 05:13 AM   #3
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It'* better to just change out the "endlinks" if that'* what you can call them with polyurethane, you will notice a huge difference, changing the ones that hold the car wont really do anything. Plus you have to regrease them, yeah! Just a suggestion, spend the money in the right place, on the "endlinks" (a whole bunch of bushings squished together).
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Old 08-20-2002, 10:27 PM   #4
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Sounds good, they're only about $10 anyways.
I'll do it and tell you how it turns out.
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Old 08-21-2002, 12:07 AM   #5
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Default Help!!

Tonight I pulled one rear wheel off, expecting to take the nut off the bolt that holds the sway bar bushings in, but it would only come a little loose. It acted stuck. I WD40'd it, but it just won't come off. I think I'll have to cut the bolt off to change it. I didn't try the other side because it was getting dark... so now one side is kinda loose...
Any ideas?
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Old 08-21-2002, 12:25 AM   #6
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It costed me $25 total to change all the front and rear swaybar bushings in my car with Energy Suspension Polyurethane including the special lube they have for polyurethane. And my suggestion, get a breaker bar, no bolt will defeat a 2 foot long breaker bar. They are cheap.
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Old 08-21-2002, 12:59 AM   #7
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I don't think a breaker bar will work here. It'* too confined an area, and the bolt flexes with the rubber bushings. It feels like the nut is cross-threaded on the bolt, but it doesn't look like it is. If the WD40 doesn't work, I think I'm going to have to cut it off, and go to the hardware store and get a new one.
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Old 08-21-2002, 09:49 AM   #8
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If replacing link kits then cutting torch works the best. Just keep a water hose nearby though to put out fires.
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Old 08-21-2002, 01:44 PM   #9
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The bolt is a pretty skinny one, it has a 13 mm nut on it (about the size of a 1/2" nut) so I think I can get in there with a small hacksaw or even a bolt cutter. It will be interesting to see if the other side is as tough... do they do something to suspension bolts and nuts to keep them from loosening?? This nut is acting like it'* crossthreaded or has been "punched" on the side to keep it from turning.
It'* always frustrating when a 5 minute job turns into a 3 hour ordeal...
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Old 08-22-2002, 04:14 AM   #10
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Uh.... 13mm wrench? Its actualy 1/2" on both sides, the bolt and the nut. And you need to use 2 wrenches to get it off, you need to stop the nut from turning and turn the bolt.
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