problems with my L67
 

i have a 2000 bonneville SE. i did a L36 to L67 swap. i have a couple problems and i would like some help.

1st problem i've noticed that with my L36 my car was faster than it is now with the L67 any ideas on how to get the full potential out of my engine.

2nd problem is that i have a booste gauge and i have no idea where to install it to get an accurate reading on the booste.. can anywone help me with this :?:

Boost gauge install is in Techinfo.

On your swap, we can't help you unless you tell us EVERYTHING you swapped, did, and dreamed while you did it. We need a very detailed accurate picture.

ok i will get a picture tomorrow. but as for what was swapped.

fuel pump, axles, complete engine and transmissioin, pcm was reprogrammed from INTENSE-RACING, for installation i had to buy a L36 to L67 swap kit from ZZPerformance.

another detail i forgot to mention is that my traction control seems to have went out the window. i don't have a control to turn it on and off but it seems to not work. i don't have the 'track off' light on. but i can sit the and smoke my tires though. the mechanic that helped me install the engine says that because i'm smoking my tires that is the reason that my car seems to be going slower. but i had my wife with me in the car and she claims that my car did go faster with my L36

Let's start with boost. Follow my Techinfo article and get the gauge installed. Need to know what you've got at wide open throttle (WOT).

ok i will install the gauge and get back to you ASAP

Also...check fuel pressure while you are hooking up the boost gauge.

is there a certain way i have to do it. oter than pulling the cap off the fuel line and pucking the little stopper and getting a small gas shower? :oops:

get a mechanical fuel guage on it and tell us the readings from on/not running, idling, and WOT

hmm would auto zone have something like that?

yes

proably both one to rent and buy

worth the investment to buy one, they only run about 30 bucks

ok heading to auto zone. (only a block away :D ) and i will get that picture to you

ok maybe i'm just blind. how do i up load the pics?

ok not having no luck uplaoding the pics of my engine and auto zone doesn't have a loaner guage. anything else i cold tell you. won't be able to buy the guage until i get paid.

if you cant upload pics, you arent trying hard enough...

what is going wrong while you are trying?

lol. well i went to a shop and had them hook up a fuel pressur gauge and this is the reading that i got

car on not started = 45psi
car started and in idle = 50psi
car started and opened up until rev limiter = 55psi

also i finnally got the boost gauge working.
car at idle = -10psi
car opened up and screaming = 5psi

anything else you wanna know??

i'm not a boost expert, but I believe that is low boost. I think the normal is around 9-10 PSI.

all those fuel and boost readings look normal...

a stock series 2 will see 6-7psi

ok so anyidea why my L36 felt like it was putting out more power than my L67 :?

finnally got the pics, but they are small. :x

http://www.carsponsors.com/member_ph...6227_large.jpg
http://www.carsponsors.com/member_ph...6227_large.jpg

working on making them bigger

http://www.carsponsors.com/member_ph...6227_large.jpg

I'm pretty sure you don't need that valve cover breather and that intake you have on there is only sucking in hot hot engine bay air so that is going to kill power considerably. What kind of plugs are you running with what gap? Also what octane gas have you using?

Ed

Ditto! Is that intake new? That's a lot of HOT air you're pulling into your throttle body. What about the filter? You really need a heat shield for it. Valve cover breather is purely cosmetic at this point.

i run regular unleaded. should i be running something else?

PREMIUM ONLY!!!!! You're probably getting MASSIVE Knock Retard running 87. Due to excess heat from the supercharger compressing the air, anything less than premium will pre-detonate and your computer will pull timing. That Hot Air Intake is only compounding the issue. For now, just put back on the stock intake and fill that baby up with 93 if available - 91 MINUMUM. Don't drive hard until all that regular is burned off.

oh s**t :shock: i will fill up on premium next time. where can i get a heat shiel?

get an INTENSE FWI and ditch that intake you have

Custom made job. Do a search on "heat shield" and you'll see plenty of examples. Consider a FWI (Fenderwell Intake) to get the coldest air. www.intense-racing.com sells them. They come with a quality filter too. I'm not sure about that one you got now - looks like a knock-off K&N, which we have found are capable of HOLDING water.

FYI, it's not necessarily the heat that causes KR, although that contributes to it.

The primary concern is the 'effective' compression ratio. On boosted engines, the ratio goes sky high at WOT. That's the reason for running premium to prevent knock (predetonation).

ok i will start running premium and i will also get a fenderwell intake from intense as soon as i can. anything else for the shopping list?

the stock airbox was lost a long time ago after the numeras moves i've done in the last couple years. so i guess until i can get the intake from intense. any other ideas? :?:

Got a scantool?

i tried buying one. but i was told that it was discontinued........oh and i ran my gas out and filled up on premium. yeah there is a differense. thanks for that pointer
:)

Afew questions first...

Do you have a 3inch DP? If not get one
What PCM was used?
If it was your stocker-stock L36 PCMs WIL NOT READ THE BBV solenoid , but you don't need the solenoid anyways.

Do a search for bypassing the BBV solenoid..This will help you out tremendously..

Bad advice here. Adding a 3 inch downpipe to an L67 that isn't running right could cause more complications and undue cost. The downpipe has nothing to do with the poor running car.

NEVER bypass the boost control solenoid. The PCM won't be able to dump boost in critical situations to protect the engine. For a daily driver, ALWAYS keep the BCS. And I'm assuming this is a daily driver.

Get a scantool. You really shouldn't be tackling a swap like this without one.

Mr. Wren

I beleive your missing the point.. An L36 PCM WILL NOT read the solenoid! Even if the file is encoded into the PCM. So thereforehe will never have a good running car, unless he sends the pcm back to Intense.
There are ways to bypass the solenoid-NOT THE BBV. And I agree everyone should keep the BBV.

What ppl. don't understand is swapped cars using the stock (or reproged) L36 PCM is the BBV solenoid does read. If he used a PCM from an L67 car and had the same file the PCM would control boost.

You guys over here don't have a lot of experience with the TS/swapped cars, so if you don't want my help fine.

And your right-bad advice to free up the exhaust and possibly lower KR :roll:

And I agree with getting a scantool, it should've been purchased before the swap. Or at least have full time access to one for the first few weeks afterwards.

Sorry-my bad

double post, so I guess I'll try to make good use of it :P

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...de=&s=#3681073

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...de=&s=#3708874

Read the 2nd thread.. I can find MANY more that describe the exact same issue the poster is describing. BBV solenoid

The SOLUTION is to get the BCS working by whatever means, the correct PCM would be best. You stated bypass, which we've found to be a bad idea. Do a search to find it. ;)

BBV? We have a BCS and a BCA. Those are the terms we use per the FSM for consistency's sake.

Modifying a poor running car by any means (including downpipe) is a bad idea. It's a waste of money, as the DP isn't causing his issues. Whether a DP would lower KR or not isn't the point. He doesn't even know if he has KR. He has no scantool. And stock L67's run with no KR with stock downpipes.

No need to have this twice :P