Ported manifolds
Got my ported manifolds installed today, and man it was a bear.
We didnt get that many pictures taken because it took a lot longer than expected. The front (left) manifold took about and 2 hours to remove and install the ported manifold. The rear (right) was just atrocious. I took up almost 6 hours of finagaling to get it off and then the new one on.
We went through almost an entire can of WD40. (Man that stuff smells good!
)
Even after all our rechecking and re-tightening we still have exhaust leaks, all at the joint locations/collars/joints or whatever you want to call them. Tomorrow we're going to recheck all the connecting points and try and retighten them. :?
And now for the best part of the night. On my way home I feel the need to check out what kind of gains I'm looking at. Find a nice stretch of road and put the pedal down around 55mph, at 3800rpms I felt the car just pull. I barely got a "Oh ****!" out and a glance at the tach when it was already at the shift point. This is all with a stock exhaut system.
We didnt get that many pictures taken because it took a lot longer than expected. The front (left) manifold took about and 2 hours to remove and install the ported manifold. The rear (right) was just atrocious. I took up almost 6 hours of finagaling to get it off and then the new one on.
We went through almost an entire can of WD40. (Man that stuff smells good!
)Even after all our rechecking and re-tightening we still have exhaust leaks, all at the joint locations/collars/joints or whatever you want to call them. Tomorrow we're going to recheck all the connecting points and try and retighten them. :?
And now for the best part of the night. On my way home I feel the need to check out what kind of gains I'm looking at. Find a nice stretch of road and put the pedal down around 55mph, at 3800rpms I felt the car just pull. I barely got a "Oh ****!" out and a glance at the tach when it was already at the shift point. This is all with a stock exhaut system.
Seth, be careful. You can crack an iron manifold by re-torquing. Check the torque specs in Techinfo, and use a random pattern, 'sneaking' up on the torque values. Go half on all bolts/studs in a random pattern, then 3/4 of the torque value on all, then full torque.
Loosen them all before you start.
Loosen them all before you start.
Originally Posted by willwren
Seth, be careful. You can crack an iron manifold by re-torquing. Check the torque specs in Techinfo, and use a random pattern, 'sneaking' up on the torque values. Go half on all bolts/studs in a random pattern, then 3/4 of the torque value on all, then full torque.
Loosen them all before you start.
Loosen them all before you start.
That'* pretty much what we did. We put the two outside nuts on right away (not tight though) just to keep the manifolds in place then we tightened the studs in place without torqueing them down. The crossovers and downpipe were a lot easier to connect than I expected. We did break one bolt that just refused to loosen, on the crossover connecting to the rear manifold. Luckily we got a good friend that keeps odds and ends from cars, a Junkoligist.
Checked the connections this morning and I didnt see any smoke coming from the mating areas. Maybe it fixed itself? Or maybe it was just all the WD40 burning off. :?
Checked the connections this morning and I didnt see any smoke coming from the mating areas. Maybe it fixed itself? Or maybe it was just all the WD40 burning off. :?
Originally Posted by smellbird
Checked the connections this morning and I didnt see any smoke coming from the mating areas. Maybe it fixed itself? Or maybe it was just all the WD40 burning off. :?
Well good job then and happy motoring
We put my Togs in today and was amazing how poor the stock manifold must flow. There'* a ton of room to port those stockers. Glad your enjoying the power, waiting till things get welded before my butt-o-meter feels anything. Oh didn't break any bolts, just one wire.



