Then what I will do is change the 3.4 to a 3.5. I will look at other changes over time to deal with KR and upgrade later if possible.

Keep in mind that there are differing opinions on this, and different experiences by others. However, if you go 3.4, you have to have the money in the bank to deal with it afterwards IF it becomes a problem. So your wisest safest choice may in fact be the 3.5".

While a mail order PCM may not help a lot (it will help some because we add about 3% extra fueling which helps "quench" heat and therefore some knock, a custom tuned PCM done a dyno can do worlds of difference for knock. Getting a good fuel curve adding cylinder skewing, play with timing, etc... can all help tune a car in for its mods and reduce or eliminate knock.

I had some free time today, so I shielded my intake, and ran my scan program to see how well it did. Before this I was getting about 167 sitting idle, now I'm idleing at about 130. But once I start moving it drops. Outside air temp is about 60, when driving it would drop in to the low 70s


Hard to makeout the readout, but you can see the drop.



This was after driving for a while, the top scale is engine temp, bottom in intake temp.




This is what I did. I still want to do a little more to seal it better on the top and bottom.

Comments?

Next step is to replace the filter. I'll bet you that filter holds water. We've had several here that do, and yours looks identical. That filter is probably more of a flow restriction than your stock paper filter.

I've been asked that already, and I took it off, went in the house, and held it under the faucet. Water went right threw.

What I really want to know is if my results were good.

Is it worth my time to add some flex hose to help force air in to the box?