Just picked up a really clean 1995 Buick Park Ave Ultra with Grand Touring Suspension with only 42k miles on it. verified with CarFax before buying.

Will be doing plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, PCV valve in the next week.

The stock air filter housing looks horrible!
I have a 6" diameter K&N with a POP filter adapter http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=360
off my 1996 maxima. I last adapted it to a 1991 Buick regal 3800.
http://www.geocities.com/willyougo/BuickKN.html
So I started mocking it up already to install in the corner above the EVAP. I will be putting some sheet metal around it to keep it nice and cool. I might even move the EVAP and put the air filter in the fender well.

The car already has a very nice stock transmission cooler which I might upgrade later on.

Is there any benifet flow wise to replacing the stock muffler and resonator? I searched back about 3 months and didn't find any conclusive results. Most people seem to do it for the sound more than HP.

The goal is to make this a very quick freeway and back roads cruiser. Since stock is 225 crank HP - perhaps shoot for 260.
I am also looking for better mileage at the same time. Usually intake and exhaust will help in that category. I also am looking to make the stock tranny live as long as possible. It already has a sticker on the tranny saying Re-manufactured GM transmission. So I am fairly sure that the tranny is good right now.

So current list of things - chip in if you think the order should be different or I should add something
1.tune up - spark plugs, spark plug wire (I really like the B&W spiral wire), PCV, replace all the rubber vacuum hoses, oil change
2. K&N cone filter
3. Maybe 2.5 pulley- ?
4. Chip from gmtuners.com
5. better front brakes
6. bigger tranny cooler
7. end links
8. Maybe custom springs

Ok lets see here.

Grand touring? What is that, F41? Give us some RPO codes, we like those. The sticker is on your spare tire cover under the trunk carpet.

Here are some personally recommended specific brands on the things you've already planned...

You might want to go with an INTENSE FWI for the best avalability in power when you start modding.

As far as exhaust goes, if anything, you might want to get a high flow cat from magnaflow, other than that, a muffler would most likely be for sound reasons only. Unless of course you start REALLY flowing, and then you'd have to hold the opinion of the supercharged masters around here.

Plugs: NGK TR55
Wires: AC Delco, Autolite Pro
Fuel Filter: Purolator
PCV: Purolator if available, otherwise doesn't matter

Current list:
1. All mentioned, and for oil change, Mobil 1 and Purolator PureONE or Delco filter recommended. Mobil 1 filter even better if you want to spend the extra bucks.
2. Intense FWI comes with if you decide to go with that.
3. You'll want to verify your KR levels in all conditions before doing any pulley changes.
4. Great.
5. As far as I know, there are no big brake upgrades for the C & H bodies. If you want to go OE, go with Bendix rotors and CT-3 pads. If you want to spend a little more, and get a little more, go with Power Slot cryogenic rotors with the ceramic pads of your choice (CT-3 still recommended)
6. Best investment you'll ever make. Make sure to get one that only cools when necessary to allow the trans to get to full op temp (forgot the word for that, someone help hah)
7. Go with some from energy suspension. Take some measurments, and select the correct size from their catalog.
8. Confirm the RPO of your suspension before making any decisions here, if you have F41 or FE2, you may not even want to mess with it.

1.tune up - spark plugs, spark plug wire (I really like the B&W spiral wire), PCV, replace all the rubber vacuum hoses, oil change

NGK TR55 plugs (copper, not irridium) gapped at .060", Belden Premium wires from NAPA because fancy wires don't add performance, only added insulation and cost, any brand PCV, Mobil 1 if you choose to, and I prefer K&N filters. I change my oil every 5k or actually twice a year because I never hit 5k per year.

2. K&N cone filter
Sure. As long as you build a very good heat shield for it. Otherwise, stick to the stock airbox, perforate the front with a few 2" holes, and drop a K&N replacement (OEM size) filter in it.

3. Maybe 2.5 pulley- ?
Not without owning (or having ready access to) a scantool and fuel pressure gauge, and reading this article: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=104 and don't tell me your EM'* aren't cracked because I can see the cracks from here (everyone has them).

4. Chip from gmtuners.com
Sure. But you need that scantool first, and you have to know EXACTLY what you want. He makes no assumptions. Get the info from Ryan (Darth Fiero on our Forum) and start studying it. Ask questions when you're not sure.

5. better front brakes
Powerslot front rotors with Raybestos Quiet-stop pads. Ask us when you get them about breaking them in and properly torquing them to prevent warping. Don't even bother though, unless you fix up and PROPERLY adjust your rear brakes first.

6. bigger tranny cooler
Get one that is viscosity controlled as mentioned above. It bypasses when it'* cold and thick, then flows through the core easily after it reaches a certain temperature and viscosity. BYPASS the core inside the radiator.

7. end links
Go to Autozone and get the right length. Read this for more specific info:
8. Maybe custom springs
Do the rest first. Then think about springs last. Nobody should be thinking springs until they've upgraded their struts and tires first anyway, as well as all other worn-out suspension components.

RPO Codes - looks like Grand Touring is the F41




1. Curious why you choose NGK instead of the AutoLite Copper?
plug wires are subjective - Wires are only $30 at kragen.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...e=5004&PTSet=A
I put 30k a year on my car commuting so frequent oil changes are in order. will probably go with the Mobil 1 filter and Mobile 1 5-30 oil

2. I already have the K&N filter and mount. just need to fab a hose and connector. I know that a heat shield is in order. See my previous link on my previous regal cold air set up.

3. I already read your article so will probably start looking for a scan tool - I already have OBD 1 code readers and a OBD2 reader. I assume when you say scan tool your are talking some thing like a Auto Xray scanner or the Equas scanner
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3389

I have tried the Quiet-Stop before. i prefer Hawk green pads. Once you bed them in you stop NOW. the hard part is going easy the first week :(

thanks for the info on the end links will order those up.

Custom springs are a options down the line. I can already tell the car is a little soft in the front. Its a Buick, what do you expect?

Plus I only have 42k miles on my car so I don't think my bushings are shot yet.

Bushings will simply go with age, not necessarily miles. I suggest front struts for now (not quick-struts, you want to keep your oem springs for now). You have the stiffest springs available for your year. Properly 'suspended' and damped, you should be very happy with them long-term. As testament to that, I'm running stock FE2 springs on my SSEi. It has been labelled by dozens of members who have ridden and driven in it as the best handling SSEi on this Forum hands down. And I haven't touched my springs.

I prefer the 'split' spark of the NGK, and NGK makes the AC Delco plugs. I ran autolites last summer for a bit, and they didn't do as well. The NGK TR55 is a very highly rated favorite on this Forum.

Get the Actron CP9110 scantool, and have Slug (member here) make a cable for you that is compatible with the hybrid 94/95 PCM. Ebay is the best source for those tools.

have the tune up done, NGK TR55 plugs, Spiral wires, PVC, - have the fuel filter sitting on my work bench. keep forgetting to put it in.

just put on my K&N filer with the POP charger. Have to finish up the heat shield next week.
My car doesn't have a IAT in the stock air filter. Maybe because of the outside air temp sensor is used instead?

Intake noise is VERY noticeable! idle and then any anything over 1/2 throttle. I will have to take a quick video and post it on youtube.

I need to find a scantool next so that I can put the smaller pulley on. Still looking to break 22mpg. Hoping the air filter helps out.

Need to put new sway bar links on also

pic of the intake

Check your airbox. The IAT is in a hole in the back of the box, facing the driver/firewall.
If it'* not there, start digging for it below there at the end of the harness tucked in
by your PMV assembly (ABS/Traction/Brakes) below the airbox.

General design rules for CAI'* and FWI'* (especially with a supercharger):

1. Never use ABS or PVC or any other type of plastic. They heatsoak and outgas.
2. The fewer the bends the better.
3. If you have to have a bend, limit it to one, and make it as gradual as possible.
4. Ditch the stock accordian tube. It'* the worst thing in the stock system.
5. Never use a 'cheapo' K&N knockoff. We've found some brands to actually hold water, and most actually restrict flow when compared to a stock filter.
6. Always provide a heatshield. If you can't, go back to the stock box and drop in a replacement K&N.

The idea here is laminar velocity. The supercharger demands it. Any turn, bend, wrinkle, corrugation, or other minor surface disruption inside will defeat you.

Try for something like this:


That'* an aluminum tube with a single gradual bend, K&N RX4750 filter and custom heatshield. Read this before selecting your insulation:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=54883

If you're only getting 22mpg (highway?) you need to stop modding and find your problem. You should be getting 28/29 bare minimum, and some here achieve as high as 32mpg. The intake should have no effect on fuel mileage. What'* your fuel pressure? At key on (3 times for 2 seconds, no start), idle, and idle with the vacuum line pulled off the FPR?

How old is the O2? Have you cleaned your TB/MAF (see Techinfo). Fuel filter?

The IAT was not in the hole in the airbox. I dug around in the wiring harness looking for the IAT and did not find it on the top. It is kinda hard to loose something that is 1 inch in diameter and 2 inch long. Unless it fell down under the ABS unit.

1. The ABS is for test fit and to see if I like it. It will get replaced with a 90 degree 3 inch piece of pipe.
4. accordion tube will get ditched in the next stage.
5. the filter you see is a K&N filter with a POP charger
6. heat shield is coming next week.

20-22 mpg overall with no city driving.

I spent a couple hours reading and that seems to be what a lot of the 94-95 series 1 L67 users are getting. Anything over 25mpg seems to be series II L67

I am betting the O2 sensor is the stock one. So might be a good idea to replace it with a Delco one just in case.
haven't cleaned the TB and MAF. that is on the list
Have a fram fuel filter that will go in soon.

Look at your airbox. The IAT hole is there. Just below where the accordian attaches. Your sensor is buried down there, and can hide very easily. I lose my harness regularly when I move and disconnect things.

All Series 1 L67'* in good tune should achieve at LEAST 28mpg. Both of mine do better than that. One mostly stock, the other pretty well built gets 32 highway.

Shawn, I too I achieved 31mpg on a 60 mile trip, and I have a K&N cone, pipe, and a high flow cat.

And, What the heck is a POP charger?