Before starting (especially on the L27 or L36) put a small amount of penetrating oil on the nuts/studs holding the TB onto the SC/upper intake.

Disconnect the TPS and MAF connectors. Remove the MAF sensor, and place it on the dash of the car to keep it safe. Remove the intake plenum hose from the airbox/intake.

Remove the retainer clips from the 2 throttle cables (throttle/cruise). Place these on the strut tower or in your pocket, and mark which cable was top or bottom. Using pliers, release the cable guides from the bracket.

Remove the screw(*) from the bracket to the TB. Put this (these) with the cable clips, or put them back into the TB.

Now you get nasty. The crossover pipe heat shield needs to come off with the TB bracket. There are studs and nuts on the rear head. Remember the sequence you took them off. Draw a diagram. From memory, I THINK it goes Head/Nut/Bracket/Nut/heat shield/nut. On the L27, but not on the L67, there'* also a nasty little nut you have to remove that hides on the lower intake. After the bracket is removed, remove the 3 nuts from the TB studs. Make sure the anchors in the plastic upper intake (if equipped) don't spin as you break these loose. The studs may come out with the nuts, no problem. Remove the MAF screen carefully.

At this point, you can remove the TB. Use an intake-safe cleaner ONLY. An old toothbrush, or one belonging to an ex-girlfriend helps alot. Use the whole can. Let it soak, scrub, rinse, repeat.

For installation, install a new TB gasket (if needed), and reverse the steps above. Install the MAF sensor last, to give the cleaner time to evap before it gets exposed to it. Follow the Torque specs in Techinfo AT LEAST for the TB nuts/studs on the L27 and L36. This is critical on the non-supercharged cars.

Post count +1. That'* alot of brain work for only one.

And he'* Right Too! (I had to do this a month ago or so.. stupid gasket)

I calculated my gas mileage for the first time since summer. It got a whopping 15.8mpg! Well, I guess cold weather can do that to a big V6.

wait, wouldnt cold weather help? (lower intake temps)

ZZPerformance sells a torque converter for the L36 and L67 engines. It provides all the torque the car has off the line. I think it sells for $429, but it requires disassembling the tranny to install it. Check zzperformance.com for other options too.

Would that tourque converter always provide all of the torque at a low RPM? When I first step on the gas it runs 1200 rpm, same at 50 mph(with torque clutch engaged). So I take it that it would be able to climb hills easier on the highway as well as have better acceleration off the line since the rpms are similar. Also, do you know at what rpm the torque starts to drop off with this torque converter?

I clean mine while still installed on the engine...just remove intake duct/pipe and spray "MAF sensor safe" tb cleaner in while throttling engine by hand...

Has work fine for me...

We're talking about an L27 here. Not an L36 or L67. ZZP doesn't support the Series 1. And a torque converter from ZZP will only gain you performance if your old TC is slipping.

Kinda paint? HA! It was a major pain to remove my TB, but then again I'm a fool.

I used 4 cans of STP TB cleaner, 1 1/2 cans on the upper intake.