My Series 1 L67 Super-Buildup! - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 11-12-2007, 01:44 AM   #11
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What kind of rods and pistons are you using, L32???
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Old 11-12-2007, 01:54 AM   #12
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No, I'm using the stock 93 pistons and rods. I'm thinking of going with a fresh set of bolts from the dealership. Unless anybody here has part numbers, I'm having a hell of a time finding the correct ARP bolts for this engine. Summit racing lists some, but it says, "Includes nuts." WTF? And ZZP'* website says that rods require machining to avoid spinning a bearing when using ARP bolts.
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Old 11-12-2007, 03:46 AM   #13
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What kind of budget do you have for this project? just asking because the L32 rods and pistons do go for a good chunk of change however, they are lighter and stronger than the L67 parts.
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Old 11-12-2007, 08:49 AM   #14
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We need to re-visit the differences between Series 1 and Series 2. ZZP has no experience with the Series 1, and the rods are quite different. So their information on machining for ARP is meaningless.

L32 rods are not compatible with the Series 1. Nor are they necessary. The Series 1 doesn't operate at the same RPM'* as a series 2.

Check your service manual. If the torque spec doesn't include another certain degree of rotation after the torque spec, they are not TTY.

I've never heard of a main cap or bolt failure, including on my own car, and I'm over 300 crank HP.
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:45 PM   #15
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Uh oh, almost got fooled that time! My service manual gives a normal torque spec for the bolts, which led me to believe that the main and rod bolts weren't torque to yield. But (because my instructors at trade school hammered into my head) I checked Shopkey and Alldata at work today and they give torque+angle specs. I called the dealership and the service manager confirmed that they are indeed torque to yield, and strongly recommended fresh bolts. I got on the line with the parts department and got some bad news. The main cap bolts are discontinued, they can't get them. They can get the rod bolts, but for $16 each! That'* $192 plus tax for the rod bolts alone! Suddenly the ARP ones at 85 bucks for a set look cheap. ARP it is! I will call them tomorrow and get part numbers and exact prices for anybody who wants to know.

On a side note, looking at my old rod bolts, they REALLY stretched! I have to get pictures of this for you guys. I will post them as soon as I can. You definitely don't re-use these bolts!

On a side side note for Wilwren... Don't you dare touch that perfect block you bought! You can start to see what you'd be getting into... :P
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:04 AM   #16
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I know very well what I'm getting into. I've kinda been working on it for a very long time.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:09 AM   #17
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Sorry, I didn't really explain what I meant by that very well. I know you know the S1 inside and out and are one of the most knowledgeable members here when it comes to this engine. That'* not what I meant. I'm saying you should leave that block alone! Don't change any bearings, rings, etc. I think this is your plan anyway, isn't it? I know you've got the know-how, but why deal with the extra grief when your block looks so good as it is.
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Old 01-13-2008, 02:43 PM   #18
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Just a quick update because I haven't posted in a while. The engine is no further along because of a hold-up with parts. I ordered the ARP rod bolts and main studs directly from ARP to make sure I got the right ones. I gave them the year, make & model, VIN number, engine code and casting # off the block from the 93 donor car and the main studs were still wrong. I tried, I guess. Turns out after some research they sent me Series 2 studs. The Series 1, it turns out, has much larger main bolts (1/2" x 13 as upposed to 7/16").

Can anyone confirm for me that all Series 1 L67s have the same mains and bolts? Are L27s the same?

According to the tech at ARP, they don't make main studs for this engine, and can't match up anything from their stock. So, they faxed me a big sheet of measurements to take and they will be making them for me.

I don't want to get into this too much yet, but I'm building a Series 1 web site. Since Seriesoneperformance.com is no longer active, we've once again got a big void in the GM aftermarket that I would like to try and fill. More info is coming in the next few months. I will probably sell the Drunken Sailor/ARP main studs on the site. I'm working on a bunch of cool parts, including cams and heads.

For those wondering, the correct ARP part number for the ARP rod bolts in 123-6002 if yours have a 1.7" underhead length and 123-6001 if they measure 1.5". Summit has them for around $75, which is cheaper than the GM dealer at $15 per bolt. The main bolts are discontinued through GM.
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