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Old 09-01-2004, 01:20 PM   #1
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Default intake pipe

Next in the series of threads flooding the P&B forum!

Would there be a problem with using a welded pipe as the intake pipe? I've found one that appears to be decent quality, and has a pretty smooth interior. If I cleaned it up more, and got it click as can be, would that be alright for my intake pipe?
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Old 09-01-2004, 01:21 PM   #2
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Read the ricer pipe sticky up a couple topics from this. We just installed one on DrJay'* car on Sunday. Worked well.
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Old 09-01-2004, 01:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Read the ricer pipe sticky up a couple topics from this. We just installed one on DrJay'* car on Sunday. Worked well.
I read through that thread, and while a ready-made solution that just requires a little chopping is nice, it'* still 40 bucks for a pipe. maybe i'm cheap, but that seemed like a bit much. So while I was at autozone checking out stuff last night, I found this exhaust pipe extension - 3 inch OD on one end, 3.25 on the other. 18 inches long. Welded, but thick pipe, with a good interior finish. Under 6 bucks. Local mufler shop said they'd put a 70 degree bend in it for me for 5 bucks. So I'd have an unpolished pipe for 11 bucks, instead of the rice pipe for 40...

That'* my line of thinking right now... just wanted to make sure that it would be alright to use the welded pipe...
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Old 09-01-2004, 01:48 PM   #4
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Yea, 40 bucks for a pipe is basic metal pipe is a lot.
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Old 09-01-2004, 02:04 PM   #5
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Only one bad thing is the exhaust shop will more than likely be putting a press bend in the pipe or even worse a wrinkle bend which is bad for flow, especially on an intake pipe which is best with a smooth inside for lamniar flow. just my 2 cents....
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Old 09-01-2004, 02:32 PM   #6
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Good point. And that steel will hold the heat longer than aluminum. Wrap the snot out of it. 47 layers of aluminum foil and kryptonite.

The weight may be an issue, too. Couplers are flexible.
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Old 09-01-2004, 02:42 PM   #7
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Is that a steel pipe? I'd avoid it if possible... Steel is heavy and will rust unless coated well.

You're going to need to coat it, which will run atleast 20 bux. You need 45 degree bend, not 70.

Jason'* running my setup now Will?
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Old 09-01-2004, 02:45 PM   #8
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Same rice pipe I think. Plastic package, orange stripe? Check the meet pics in Your Ride. The empty package is in the foreground of the beer shot.

Same pipe, different filter. But a real K&N this time. Honestly, I think the filter made the most difference, but he had an EXTREMELY shitty fake cone on there. Maf counts changed from an idle of 1200 to 1500 with the filter change. IDLE MAF counts!

But the dual scream is freaking awesome with both cars running nearly identical intake setups
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Old 09-01-2004, 04:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
Is that a steel pipe? I'd avoid it if possible... Steel is heavy and will rust unless coated well.

You're going to need to coat it, which will run atleast 20 bux. You need 45 degree bend, not 70.

Jason'* running my setup now Will?
actually, i think i will need about a 70 degree bend. won't be quite sure for about another month or so. and if i had an exhaust place do it, i'd have the sense to do a mandrel bent job...
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Old 09-01-2004, 04:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Good point. And that steel will hold the heat longer than aluminum. Wrap the snot out of it. 47 layers of aluminum foil and kryptonite.

The weight may be an issue, too. Couplers are flexible.
yeah... the steel isn't a light-weight, but it'* not a beast either. I'm thinking that I'm going to do a frame mounted box, as opposed to a filter mounted one, so the coupler won't have the full stress of a pipe hanging off of it. that said, again, the pipe surely isn't a feather, but it'* not horrible either. time will tell... time will tell.

worst case scenario, I spend 10 bucks and find out its crappy. best case, I find out it works great, 30 bucks cheaper than the rice pipe setup.
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