I was just going by what dbeast420 said, the 96-99 FW is not as protected. I have not looked to see this nor have I looked to see where exactly the filter would lay in a FWI set up. Nor have I heard of any specific Bonneville cases, but that doesen't mean it cant happen. My point is water should be considered when the result can be needing a new motor.

I have hydrolocked a motor (not my bonneville) in WAY shallower water then I thought would be needed to do so. The intake was not submerged, or even near it, but enough splashed up and was sucked in to cause major problems. I could actually look down through the TB and see inches of water sitting in my intake manifold. I was not ripping hard through the water either - going <20mph. So based on that maybe I am just paranoid now; but I think I have a good reason to be. It sucks having to replace a motor just because you thought you would be fine. It only take one "right situation" for it to happen. Take a look at your install, decide for yourself. To me it is not worth the risk. If the filter is somewhere it could get a wash from a puddle I would install one of those bypass valves from AEM (I think that is who makes them).

I think the original post was intended to produce pictures and tips on how to construct a heatshield, not a debate of FWI vs CAI, at least that'* what I expected when I openned up this thread.

Come to a meet....we'll show you tons of them.

Jeez can't a guy have a life outside BC I know I know, get my *** to a meet. I WILL make it to one, even if I don't have a Bonne by the time I do

I'm merely saying.. you are local...we'd all help you and there'd be tons of ideas.

Don't be a Squela...lol (j'k to both of you)

I just got a PM from a very frustrated topic author this morning. How about we go back to the original post and make an effort to answer his question and stay on topic?

Mine was very simple. First a made a cardboard template from a guinness box, then used that to make the box from a heavy gauge plastic. It'* a high performance plastic, and I can no longer remember the name, not that it matters as I'm sure no one here has heard of it. I then covered it with insolation that is used on duct work. Total cost, about $15, half that was a roll of tape. I also got a dryer vent pipe and connected it to the area under the grill so air is forced in to the box. I will try to attach pictures here.








This image shows the tempture as I'm driving. Bottom is intake temp and is about 75*

Thanks Danthurs, this is what I was expecting when I came across this topic, I know it was helpfull to me and I think it will be to the original poster

No problem at all.

That is what I had. The box is made out of safety window lexan type stuff from Lowe'*. I wished I had used slightly thicker that what I did. The black tube you can see in the second picture goes down behind the headlight to the hole in the air dam. Got it from JCWhitney - is "air duct". I think it was $10-15 for a 10' length. Its fairly smooth inside and rubberized material. I had been using dryer duct at first but it ripped easy and you could see the silver through the hole in the air dam. Everyone was asking me if I had an extra fog light on one side. The black tube is better and more discrete. Definitely helped direct air into the box.