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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 12-04-2002, 10:03 PM   #1
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Hi all. Im new to this engine so please dont bash me for asking silly questions. What Ive done is ive took my 95 Z26 beretta and took out the 3100 sfi engine with the 4t60e tranny which runs on obd-1. And im putting in a 95 Bonneville 3.8 sc motor and tranny 4t60e hd. I was wondering if you all could maybe tell me what kind of numbers I could expect from this setup? Remember my car only weights around 2900lbs. I also heard that the 95 used the newer series 2 block with the m62 supercharger. If this is the case could I use aftermarket parts that go on the series 2 ? If not what else are my options??? Im open to all suggestions to make my car as fast as possible.
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Old 12-05-2002, 12:01 AM   #2
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Welcome to the club! 95 was the transition year form series 1 to series 2. 96 gets you more hp, i'm not sure exactly the numbers, somebody else will know. i'm realitively new to this site also, but it sounds like hector is the one to talk to about performance parts. Good luck!
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Old 12-05-2002, 12:19 AM   #3
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You missed by one year

The L67 Series 1 was replaced by the L67 Series 2 in 1996. In 1997, these cars also upgraded to the 4T65E(HD) transaxle. 92-95 had the M62, 96 and up got the M90.

You have the 225 hp Series 1, M62. Lots of potential, but you didn't get the 240 horse Series 2. It'll still move that little go-cart pretty damn well! You're gonna have a BITCH of a torque steer.
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Old 12-05-2002, 12:20 AM   #4
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1995 still utilized the series 1 engine for the sc models. If you want the sereies 2 sc you should go 96 and up on the bonnevilles.
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Old 12-05-2002, 12:40 AM   #5
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Well I went with the series 1 mainlly because of the fact it was already obd-1 and didnt have the hassle of passkey. it also used basiclly the same transmission as the beretta. I just hope my axle will hold up. I thought about the torque steer that will be a problem . That and im guessing im gonna have alot of wheel spin. There has been a few others use the series 2 in berettas from the bnet forum and so far the best time is a 14.5 I believe. I wasnt that impressed with that. I believe there having computer problems or something. The series 1 seems to be alot less complex and I think I can get just as good of numbers with it as the series 2. Im sure I can do better than 14.5 anyway. What do you all think? I had 1 more question what was the factory gearing for the 95 tranny?
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Old 12-05-2002, 12:47 AM   #6
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Alot depends on what you pulled the motor out of. The Bonnevilles had the VATS passkey system. Your computer won't work without it. You need the PCM, engine wiring harness (complete) and VATS or you're gonna have problems. If the donor car still is available, check the RPO codes on the spare tire cover in the trunk, and we can give you your ratios. The gearing is slightly different for the SSEi. There is a way to bypass VATS, but I believe you need the original module from the donor car to even do that. 14.5 for a Berretta with a Series 2 SC does seem a bit low. I think you'll do better than that.
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Old 12-05-2002, 12:58 AM   #7
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The vats is on the steering colum right or am I wrong here. Im not familiar with this system so you might need to help me out on this. I will check the trunk next week for the code. The donor car is like 2 hours from me but I have to finish getting all the wiring next week. so if there is anything else I may need let me know thanks for your help it is greatlly appreciated.
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Old 12-05-2002, 01:17 AM   #8
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Ok, get the ignition switch and the original key if possible. The VATS module should be up above the RF passenger footwell/hushpanel. Not sure about the 95, so somebody else jump in here if you know!

If you can't get the original key, a dealer will have to reprogram the VATS for you to a new resistor (chip) value key. I know for a fact that the PCM will look for the VATS circuit to be complete, or you won't be able to start the car. I believe this is done through fuel cutoff. Now, if you don't want to swap in the ignition switch to your Cav column, just leave the original ignition key in it, and only leave the VATS required wires in it, then tuck it up under the dash, or hide it under the console. Neat hidden theft-deterrent. Then continue using your original ignition to start the car.

I just hope I'm giving you good info here. I'd really like someone else to back me up on this or shoot me down before you get into it deeper. Do it right the first time!

BTW, welcome to the Forum! You don't have to have the whole Bonneville to be welcome here We can learn alot from your experiences on this upgrade, then when the time comes, we'll help you squeeze more juice outta that beast!
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