Homemade PEMS
#12
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Forgive me guys if this is a bit off topic , but reading this post reminded me of a nagging question I've had about my '93 SE: Would PEMs increase performance enough to make it worth putting them on a NA car?...Currently I've got new wires/NGK 55s, CAI, removed MAF screen, 180 T-Stat & a Magnaflow CAT. Soon I will have a Magnaflow muffler as well....I'm wondering if the gain is worth the hassle....
#13
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Hard to say exactly what you'd feel. My gut would say you wouldn't feel it on an L27, as you're not flowing near an L67 anyway. I have KR at WOT on a hot day, but that'* because of boost.
Would it hurt you? No. Would it help? Certainly.
How much? Beats me. But probably not much.
Would it hurt you? No. Would it help? Certainly.
How much? Beats me. But probably not much.
#14
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That'* kinda what I figured...Besides, I'm under the impression that it'* the downpipe that is the most restrictive part of my 2 1/2" single exhaust...Is there anything that can be done about that on a L27?
#15
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Think of it this way:
Your downpipe has to flow all the exhaust from all 6 ports, but not all at once. It'* in sequence. Think of it as exhaust 'pulses' one right after the other, rather than all scrambling down the downpipe together.
This is why the downpipe doesn't need to be 6 times the cross-sectional 'flow' area of each outlet. The outlet will be your biggest restriction, the downpipe would probably be second.
This is all more important on an L67 than an L27 or L36.
Your downpipe has to flow all the exhaust from all 6 ports, but not all at once. It'* in sequence. Think of it as exhaust 'pulses' one right after the other, rather than all scrambling down the downpipe together.
This is why the downpipe doesn't need to be 6 times the cross-sectional 'flow' area of each outlet. The outlet will be your biggest restriction, the downpipe would probably be second.
This is all more important on an L67 than an L27 or L36.
#16
Originally Posted by willwren
This is all more important on an L67 than an L27 or L36.
BTW it was before the rockers went in.
#19
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Remove them, have them stitch welded carefully while bolted down to keep the flange from warping, use a die-grinder to grind out the OEM weld inside the outlets, and buy $10 gaskets to reassemble.
If you weld, or know someone that does, pretty cheap. To pay for the work from a machine shop, probably $100-$150.
If you weld, or know someone that does, pretty cheap. To pay for the work from a machine shop, probably $100-$150.
#20
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chasesmith i just ported a set of series 2 manifolds bout 2 weeks ago. The front cast manifold is pretty restrictive so you take a decent amout of material out of it. The rear one on the other hand does need to be welded, preferably before you port it out so theres not any chance of it breaking or anything related to that. The stainless welds are a pita to grind out but i found the right bit and it went a lot quicker. I heat coated mine with dei 1500* paint, wraped them with dei 1" heatwrap and used the stainless zip ties, then followed up with the dei sealer. They turned out awsome. The flange on the rear manifold is thick enough that you shouldnt need to worry about it warping. Im goin home today to port another set for a member. I will get some pics up for anyone who would like to see.