Help....GT1 Cam Shaft
#1
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Help....GT1 Cam Shaft
Okay... we've met another problem. We're having issues removing the crank shaft bolt. Qutie frankley i have no idea why we're even messing with it. But in this install it says to locate the crank pulley and remove it. So in essence we have to remove the crank bolt. But we've tried everything under the sun. Nothing seems to work. Can anyone explain to us how exactly we can get this removed and why exactly with a cam install are we messing with removing the crank pulley? We've almost completed the full breakdown of the engine but are stuck once again. Please anyone that can enlighten us on how exactly to finish this install chime in! Also if anyone who has personally installed this and has experience call me at "303-564-5157" <--- My Cell. Thanks alot,
~Aaron
~Aaron
#3
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this is off of a 97 and i think its coroded on there... lol i swear thats what we've tried. and still cant get it out. its in there so ******* tight. We've wedged the flywheel underneath even and still can't get it out of there.
#5
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yep,
unfortunately i don't think we knew what we were getting into. we got practically everything else off. this part has become a problem though. we're done today after about 9 hrs of working on this. im going to upload pictures tonight of the whole days progress. hopefully this will give you guys a better idea where i stand. Also i hope that mike can lend me some advice when i get in contact with him. This car needs to be up and running by monday because of work. lol. We thought we could get it done today but that was a big mistake. Everything else went smoothly untill we had to remove the crank bolt. One other thing, no one ever answered my question as to why you have to remove the crank pulley in order to get to the cam shaft. Or how exactly this falls into play. Are there various things in the way from the crank shaft/Sensors etc? Anyways, like i said before any advice helps. Thanks,
~Aaron
unfortunately i don't think we knew what we were getting into. we got practically everything else off. this part has become a problem though. we're done today after about 9 hrs of working on this. im going to upload pictures tonight of the whole days progress. hopefully this will give you guys a better idea where i stand. Also i hope that mike can lend me some advice when i get in contact with him. This car needs to be up and running by monday because of work. lol. We thought we could get it done today but that was a big mistake. Everything else went smoothly untill we had to remove the crank bolt. One other thing, no one ever answered my question as to why you have to remove the crank pulley in order to get to the cam shaft. Or how exactly this falls into play. Are there various things in the way from the crank shaft/Sensors etc? Anyways, like i said before any advice helps. Thanks,
~Aaron
#6
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The crankshaft goes through the timing cover. You need to remove the timing cover to get to the cam... so there ya go.
You need to hold the flywheel to get the bolt to break loose. There is a special tool, but I've found sticking a large screwdriver in there can do the trick if done right.
You need to hold the flywheel to get the bolt to break loose. There is a special tool, but I've found sticking a large screwdriver in there can do the trick if done right.
#8
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Um... yeah.... you absolutely need to take of the harmonic balancer in order to get the front cover off the motor. It is physically impossible to do it any other way.
As far as that bolt is concerned, give it a dousing with a good penetrating oil at regular intervals. Allow that stuff to really work into the bolt/threads. After many years and many miles, those things can be absolutely TERRIBLE to remove. Like the other guys said, use a long breaker bar with some kind of cheater bar on the end. If you really fight it, you'll be able to get it.
Do you or someone helping you have some experience with a cam swap already? I'm not saying you're incapable of doing it, but it sounds like you don't have a lot of confidence in finishing this job. Make sure you hit the details, like prelubing the cam and lifters, packing the oil pump full of Vaseline, and using Loctite and/or RTV on the appropriate nuts and bolts. Make damn sure you've got the thing timed right when you reassemble, and follow any break-in procedures that came with the cam.
As far as that bolt is concerned, give it a dousing with a good penetrating oil at regular intervals. Allow that stuff to really work into the bolt/threads. After many years and many miles, those things can be absolutely TERRIBLE to remove. Like the other guys said, use a long breaker bar with some kind of cheater bar on the end. If you really fight it, you'll be able to get it.
Do you or someone helping you have some experience with a cam swap already? I'm not saying you're incapable of doing it, but it sounds like you don't have a lot of confidence in finishing this job. Make sure you hit the details, like prelubing the cam and lifters, packing the oil pump full of Vaseline, and using Loctite and/or RTV on the appropriate nuts and bolts. Make damn sure you've got the thing timed right when you reassemble, and follow any break-in procedures that came with the cam.
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Use a cheater bar.
A peice of 1" thickwall EMT will slide over a 1" Craftsman like they're married. 6' or so of bar will fit with the hood still on. If you can't get it to turn then any sort of a stout man with that setup can just as easily twist the crankshaft off.
Sources:
Thickwall EMT: Electrical Supply, Lowe'*, Home Depot.
My 129lb butt popped mine off with a 2' section of thickwall EMT.
A peice of 1" thickwall EMT will slide over a 1" Craftsman like they're married. 6' or so of bar will fit with the hood still on. If you can't get it to turn then any sort of a stout man with that setup can just as easily twist the crankshaft off.
Sources:
Thickwall EMT: Electrical Supply, Lowe'*, Home Depot.
My 129lb butt popped mine off with a 2' section of thickwall EMT.
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alright guys,
yeah we have the confidence of finishing this just the fact that my friend is a diesel mechanic and he ha rebuilt 2 of his engines. 1 fuel injection dakota 5.2 L and currently his carberated 57 *****'* jeep. I'll make sure to lube everything properly. Thanks for your concerns and advice,
~Aaron
yeah we have the confidence of finishing this just the fact that my friend is a diesel mechanic and he ha rebuilt 2 of his engines. 1 fuel injection dakota 5.2 L and currently his carberated 57 *****'* jeep. I'll make sure to lube everything properly. Thanks for your concerns and advice,
~Aaron