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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 12-09-2004, 03:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
Couldnt you stroke a 3.8? that would be sweet
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=stroker+crank

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Old 12-09-2004, 04:06 PM   #12
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once again the S1 is left behind
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
once again the S1 is left behind
Huh? That stroker crank is FOR the Series I. Take your time, read the post
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:09 PM   #14
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ok so the kit is for the S1 but im not sure that i understand........it looks like there is alot of more internal parts that need to be changed..........Correct?
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
ok so the kit is for the S1 but im not sure that i understand........it looks like there is alot of more internal parts that need to be changed..........Correct?
Haha ok, hold my hand I'll walk you through it.

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Originally Posted by DrJay
So I got some word back today, here'* whats up so far. (to save typing time some stuff is taken word-for-word)

[It] has a stroke increase from 86.36 to 96mm, with a .020" over bore that equates to 4.258L capacity, or 4.302L with a .040" over bore. The extra stroke makes a huge difference to power produced, without the need for high revs and rough low-speed running. A 35% increase is readily available.

The rods are standard Series I (with some mods, more info later) but its recommended you use the Series II pistons because they're hypereutectic or forged is always better.

Adjacent big end journals on these cranks have a 30 degree offset. To strengthen this area engineers advise thickening the flange between the journals from 3mm to 4mm. This increases shear resistance by approximately 20% and that radiused journals give a similar degree of added strength over under cut journals. Both features are incorporated into these cranks.

Heavier counter balancing webs are designed for easy balancing before final assembly. once piston and rod weights have been established, fit your harmonic balancer and flexplate and the balancing can be done. We are not in the engine reconditioning business and have designed the crankshaft for economical engine rebuilding by the mechanic of your choice.

[It] will reach TDC approximately 4mm from the deck and give a CR of about 9.2:1

A test motor fitted with one of these cranks has successfully run at 7000rpm

This crankshaft is not intended for high revs. With the 11% longer stroke, piston speeds and the piston and conrod accelaration/deelaration forces make unreasonable demands on the production components we suggest for this conversion.

Some internal clearancing at the cylinder block is neccessary, adjacent to the connecting rods. take care at the oil gallery.


The rest is normal V6 assembly.

standard V6 125-130BHP @ the wheels
test car with 4.3 stroker 177 BHP @ the wheels
You get one "get out of not reading the post" free card. Next time I charge lol :P
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:17 PM   #16
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<---guess i should read


Im having an off day today
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:19 PM   #17
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lol 'tis ok
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Old 12-09-2004, 06:36 PM   #18
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I don't think it would be worth to drop the 4.3 in. An L67 or N* swap would be better.
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Old 12-09-2004, 10:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smellbird
I don't think it would be worth to drop the 4.3 in. An L67 or N* swap would be better.
LS-1...
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Old 12-09-2004, 10:36 PM   #20
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Yeah I dunno, I'd rather have the stroker in mine. Cheaper and easier to install than a N*, more unique than a stocker l67.
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