That sucks! Oh well - looks like it'* gonna be nitrous by process of elimination.

^^^ That sounded good.
This might sound dumb, but what do you mean "N10 optioned"?
We were planning on running without a resonator too. Even gave some thought to going without a muffler, but it would just be to loud. , not to mention you do need a little backpressure while running a larger pipe, if you wanna keep any torque.

I'm gonna run a search for nitrous, but if anyone has any tips they'd like to offer up regarding nitrous use and the L27, I'd appreciated it.
Since my brother'* never used nitrous before we'd run the system one of two ways :
1 - combination of WOT switch and a window switch (the more safeguards available for my brother, the better )
2 - old school push button opperated

The questions I'd have :
- What rpm is it safe to engage at? I would think it'* 3500rpms, but then again I'm used to fooling around with low displacement 4-bangers. The redline on my brother'* car is so much lower then the one on my se-r, I wasn't sure what rpm it was safe to start spraying at.
- He'll probably just run a 50 shot, so would I need to go one range colder spark plugs? Stock plugs have always been fine for me, but then again, like I said before, I'm not used to how big displacement cars work when it come to this kind of stuff.
- I'm assuming that this is kind of universal, but I'd rather be safe then sorry. The nozzle gets positioned into the intake tract about 6in before the throttle body right?
- Is it ok to run a 50 shot on stock timing?


I'm sure I'll have more questions later. Thanks very much to everyone that'* helped - it'* greatly appreciated.

***edit***
Back with another question, lol. This one is unrelated to nitrous.
I've seen people mention "getting a chip" in a couple threads. Could anyone shed some light on this for me? Who has chips avilable? Do you need to send your ECU out to get a chip soddered on or is it plug and play? How much power will it make? What does it change in order to make more power (i.e. - advance timing? change a/f mapping? exc ....)?
If this chip bumps up timing then it probably wouldn't be a good idea to run with nitrous.

should this post be moved to performance and brainstorming?

maybe that would catch Dr.Jay for some comments/thoughts?

Nitrous on an L27?? Now you're looking for Allmachtigue.

He ran nitrous in Red Rocket.

Cool, I'll drop him a PM.
I'd really like to say thanks to those who have helped out. I didn't know how well received this would be since it'* for a Regal, but everyone'* been really cool and helpful. Can't tell you guys how great it is to find friendly help after looking around online and finding nothing.
Keep it coming.

you'll find that the people around here are very nice, and very friendly.
and generally want to find ways to make our 3800'* fast... no matter what wrapper they may be in.

they love their bonnies, but they respect other 3800'* with their due respect.

its cool

it'* the best online forum i've ever taken part in...

There may be ways to SC, but it'* not for the faint of heart, or daily driven vehicles. Could the parts physically bolt up right? Yes. Would it work well, for long reliably? No one knows.

Nitrous would work, but that'* a one hit wonder power adder. Allmachtige started around 50 shot, and was using a 75 last time he used it. He'* actually looking to sell his old setup as well.

Yeah, but the good thing about nitrous is, you have the power when you want it, and the fuel economy when you don't. Not to mention - if he had nitrous it would mosly be used at the track.

A well tuned L27 can take a 75 dry shot with no problems. I was about to run a 90 shot but decided to buy a 98 SSEi and put money into that instead. The system I used was the universal Zex nitrous system which uses an NMU box to hold all the selinoids. It'* a very simple plug and play system which I used at the track or back road testing purposes ONLY. The system engauges at WOT (full throttle) once the arming switch is flipped. I could have drove around normally all day with the switch armed and no nitrous would be injected as long as I didn't go WOT, so I enjoyed that feature for safety reasons and it automatically turns off once you let off the gas (or come down from WOT the slightest). I used a combination of Autometer gauges and a Tech-Edge mini-Air/Fuel controller to tune the nitrous system. With the AFC I could turn the fuel richness up at whatever Hz voltage I wanted throughout the throttle position sensor range (for my application I set it up so that 5% more fuel was injected from 8Hz to 13Hz).

As Jason covered before, a decent intake pipe with the K&N 4750(?) filter is the most well known way to open up an L27'* intake and you can go with either 2.25 or 2.5 inch exhaust. Due to my plan to go with nitrous long before I had it, I went with custom 2.5" exhaust. A nice flowing muffler is good if your current one is falling apart and a high-flow CAT is always best. I took out the resonator for sound purposes only, but you can leave it in if you wish.

With the nitrous setup I went with NGK TR6 plugs gapped at .055, which is 2 ranges cooler than stock. If you don't plan on nitrous and wish to remain naturally aspirated, 1 range cooler is fine.

I know you asked me about the Superchips EPROMS, but sadly I wouldn't recommend them a second time around. It firmed up the shifts and gave me better throttle response, but that was about it. It was a custom burn that only cost me money...no real benefit. Talk with other L27 owners on chips, I gave up long ago.

Hope this all helps!

EDIT: Oh almost forgot! Keep the stock exhaust manifolds. Series I 3800'* have tubular manifolds and are port matched. Buying headers (if you find any) would cost too much for the benefit.

Sadly, your L27 Regals never came with an N10 exhaust system, so no 2.5" from the factory -only 2.25". I tried running a 3" Magnaflow Wide Open on Ol Blue (my 1994 SLE) and realized I had lost ALOT of low end torque. For right now I am running the factory N10 2.5" system, and it runs great (miss-fire and tranny probs aside).
Although you won't be gaining power necessarily you might buy a 180* t-stat and drill one 1/8" or two 1/8 or 1/16" holes to keep the engine in the optimal power porucing heat range, better spark plugs (AC Delco Platinums, NGK V-Power TR55'*), better plug wires (MSD, Magnacore, Belden Premium Blue 8mm, etc -4 sets of Taylors Spiro Pro'* have taken early departures on 3800'* here in the last couple days), remove the accordion tube from the cone filter to the TB and replace it with a 3 or 3.5" pipe (after which you can remove the MAF screen from the TB for up to 15% increase in incoming air), port and polish your manifolds, heads. Also, I haven't looked into it, but possibly a light weight water pump pulley, and an alternator pulley. MSD or similar Ignition system.
Also, custom burn e-prom'* are very possibly going to be arriving really soon (I actually already found a guy, but I want to be the test mule forthe L27 crowd).