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Old 06-06-2005, 11:14 PM   #1
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Default DIY Shift Kit??

Anyone here read or heard about the DIY shift kit? i read about it but i am a bit skeptical - it sounds WAY TO EASY!!

Really? a shift kit for under $10 (with out the filter)???

Anyone? I'm thinking about trying it . . .
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Old 06-06-2005, 11:37 PM   #2
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A link?
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Old 06-06-2005, 11:39 PM   #3
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don't know what the rules are for linking to other forums - is that allowed? if not i will apoligize in advance (edit just noticed you are a Mod . . . i guess it is alright then, eh?)

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1
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Old 06-07-2005, 09:48 PM   #4
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ttt

anyone?
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Old 06-07-2005, 10:52 PM   #5
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Yeah, that makes sense.

Anyone know if that'd work on my 440-t4? I'm very interested in this mod.


-justin
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Old 06-10-2005, 09:28 PM   #6
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opensource: the 440t4 trans and the 4t60e etc are very similar transmissions the t4 is just hydrostaticly controlled instead of the slenoids/PCM of the later 4t60/E

yes it will work with your trans, but I would go a different route...

the 440t4 trans (that the rear 3800 bolts to) in the twin engine 442 has my own shift kit mod that I have been installing in transmissions for years (works on any slushbox trans donchya know!) I take the polyurethane tie rod end kits (energy suspension etc) take the bushings out and trim them to fit inside the springs (if needed) by chucking them into a dril with a bolt holding the bushing and just spinning it while grinding with my bench grinder etc.
I have not had to drill the center hole to fit a trans (yet!) but sometimes I have had to remove about a 1/8 inch of the OD
then I just grind them to height (short on the circuit side and long on the spring side
I kinda like them as it is a very firm shift but without shockloading the drivetrain or stressing the accumulator bore (some older (60-80'*-trans) accumulators will crack the cover if the spring is removed or replaced with a stiffer spring. I will usually measure the wear pattern of the piston seals (to figure out piston travel) then I just set the long one to 60-75% of the travel and the short to take up the remainder. by adjusting/ playing with the lengths (remember one tie rod end kit has 8 bushings!) you can fine tune it to your needs/likes and because the urethane will give a little bit it will take some of the shock loadding that a WOT run would produce as it shifts gears.

there are plenty other internal mods you can do to the trans for better performance ( I have a hydraulic circuit diagram somewhere in my library) so that once we blow this trans up (with the turbo on the 3800? place yer bets!.....) I will be going through the new trans and running "direct" hydraulic circuits using external lines for faster fluid flow (instead of the fluid having to weave through a factory valvebody) and I will also be looking at using a TH350 transbrake solenoid to make a transbrake for the FWD 440t4.

as you can now guess I like having a hydrostaticly controlled trans over a PCM controlled one for the simplicity and lack of screwwing around with a PCM that thinks it knows better than me...lol.

this is why we are looking for another LN3/440t4 for the front engine compartment of the 442.

go wiuth their kit or use the (slightly more $) urethane bushings but either way youlll be happy! I would rec the med kit unless ya got allot of mods.

Have fun! and keeep wrenching!

regards, James

but yes it will work
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