DIY Shift Kit??
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DIY Shift Kit??
Anyone here read or heard about the DIY shift kit? i read about it but i am a bit skeptical - it sounds WAY TO EASY!! :?
Really? a shift kit for under $10 (with out the filter)???
Anyone? I'm thinking about trying it . . .
Really? a shift kit for under $10 (with out the filter)???
Anyone? I'm thinking about trying it . . .
Thread Starter
Senior Member
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Joined: Jun 2004
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don't know what the rules are for linking to other forums - is that allowed? if not i will apoligize in advance (edit just noticed you are a Mod . . . i guess it is alright then, eh?)
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1
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From: Hanoverpark/palatine IL, wrenchin' and cursin'
opensource: the 440t4 trans and the 4t60e etc are very similar transmissions the t4 is just hydrostaticly controlled instead of the slenoids/PCM of the later 4t60/E
yes it will work with your trans, but I would go a different route...
the 440t4 trans (that the rear 3800 bolts to) in the twin engine 442 has my own shift kit mod that I have been installing in transmissions for years (works on any slushbox trans donchya know!) I take the polyurethane tie rod end kits (energy suspension etc) take the bushings out and trim them to fit inside the springs (if needed) by chucking them into a dril with a bolt holding the bushing and just spinning it while grinding with my bench grinder etc.
I have not had to drill the center hole to fit a trans (yet!) but sometimes I have had to remove about a 1/8 inch of the OD
then I just grind them to height (short on the circuit side and long on the spring side
I kinda like them as it is a very firm shift but without shockloading the drivetrain or stressing the accumulator bore (some older (60-80'*-trans) accumulators will crack the cover if the spring is removed or replaced with a stiffer spring. I will usually measure the wear pattern of the piston seals (to figure out piston travel) then I just set the long one to 60-75% of the travel and the short to take up the remainder. by adjusting/ playing with the lengths (remember one tie rod end kit has 8 bushings!) you can fine tune it to your needs/likes and because the urethane will give a little bit it will take some of the shock loadding that a WOT run would produce as it shifts gears.
there are plenty other internal mods you can do to the trans for better performance ( I have a hydraulic circuit diagram somewhere in my library) so that once we blow this trans up (with the turbo on the 3800? place yer bets!.....) I will be going through the new trans and running "direct" hydraulic circuits using external lines for faster fluid flow (instead of the fluid having to weave through a factory valvebody) and I will also be looking at using a TH350 transbrake solenoid to make a transbrake for the FWD 440t4.
as you can now guess I like having a hydrostaticly controlled trans over a PCM controlled one for the simplicity and lack of screwwing around with a PCM that thinks it knows better than me...lol.
this is why we are looking for another LN3/440t4 for the front engine compartment of the 442.
go wiuth their kit or use the (slightly more $) urethane bushings but either way youlll be happy! I would rec the med kit unless ya got allot of mods.
Have fun! and keeep wrenching!
regards, James
but yes it will work
yes it will work with your trans, but I would go a different route...
the 440t4 trans (that the rear 3800 bolts to) in the twin engine 442 has my own shift kit mod that I have been installing in transmissions for years (works on any slushbox trans donchya know!) I take the polyurethane tie rod end kits (energy suspension etc) take the bushings out and trim them to fit inside the springs (if needed) by chucking them into a dril with a bolt holding the bushing and just spinning it while grinding with my bench grinder etc.
I have not had to drill the center hole to fit a trans (yet!) but sometimes I have had to remove about a 1/8 inch of the OD
then I just grind them to height (short on the circuit side and long on the spring side
I kinda like them as it is a very firm shift but without shockloading the drivetrain or stressing the accumulator bore (some older (60-80'*-trans) accumulators will crack the cover if the spring is removed or replaced with a stiffer spring. I will usually measure the wear pattern of the piston seals (to figure out piston travel) then I just set the long one to 60-75% of the travel and the short to take up the remainder. by adjusting/ playing with the lengths (remember one tie rod end kit has 8 bushings!) you can fine tune it to your needs/likes and because the urethane will give a little bit it will take some of the shock loadding that a WOT run would produce as it shifts gears.
there are plenty other internal mods you can do to the trans for better performance ( I have a hydraulic circuit diagram somewhere in my library) so that once we blow this trans up (with the turbo on the 3800? place yer bets!.....) I will be going through the new trans and running "direct" hydraulic circuits using external lines for faster fluid flow (instead of the fluid having to weave through a factory valvebody) and I will also be looking at using a TH350 transbrake solenoid to make a transbrake for the FWD 440t4.
as you can now guess I like having a hydrostaticly controlled trans over a PCM controlled one for the simplicity and lack of screwwing around with a PCM that thinks it knows better than me...lol.
this is why we are looking for another LN3/440t4 for the front engine compartment of the 442.
go wiuth their kit or use the (slightly more $) urethane bushings but either way youlll be happy! I would rec the med kit unless ya got allot of mods.
Have fun! and keeep wrenching!
regards, James
but yes it will work
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