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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 10-28-2006, 12:05 PM   #41
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Care to guess how precise your thermometers on your engine are? The facts that you are basing your analysis on. I'm only talking about 5 deg, care to guess what a gage R would look like on those thermometers?
The ones I use are accurate to +/-3 deg F but I only use them for quick reference. I use my IR gun that is accurate to +/-.1 deg F and correct for emmisivity when I test temps.

Dirt - The heat transfer in the aluminum housing thru those small coolant passages is significant. You better get out your Thermodynamics books and go back to 2nd year and study up.
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Old 10-28-2006, 01:19 PM   #42
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Paul and I have both been attacking the temperature issues for some time now. Comparing notes has been valuable for both of us.

My major understanding this year came in determining HOW the engine and most importantly the top end warm up. Not just what temp things typically run at, but what heats up first? How is the heat generated?

The end goal was to determine if it was worth plugging those passages or not. Keep in mind my conclusions are for the L67'* out there. My data above will not apply to the L27 or L36, or the earlier LG3 or LN3 engines.
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Old 10-28-2006, 03:43 PM   #43
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So if I want to maintain flow thru the SC while avoiding the path to the TB then I would have to mill a path on the SC side of the spacer to permit flow.

Bill, If you don't think it'* worth it, then I might as well plug the ports because it will be deadheaded anyway.
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Old 10-28-2006, 04:05 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
So if I want to maintain flow thru the SC while avoiding the path to the TB then I would have to mill a path on the SC side of the spacer to permit flow.

Bill, If you don't think it'* worth it, then I might as well plug the ports because it will be deadheaded anyway.
For the time being, use threaded plugs so you can change it later if you want to.
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Old 10-28-2006, 09:17 PM   #45
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For the time being, use threaded plugs so you can change it later if you want to.
DONE

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Old 10-29-2006, 12:34 AM   #46
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For the time being, use threaded plugs so you can change it later if you want to.
No matter who we had do the threaded plugs they would always start to "seap" . Our only fix so far, is plugs then epoxy=no seeping.



On topic your graph is showing where the SC heats up by the coolant ports. Have you taken into consideration that the TB gasket will affect these temps. The gasket on average is ~1mm oversized, and rarely ever centered.
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Old 10-29-2006, 01:04 AM   #47
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No matter who we had do the threaded plugs they would always start to "seap" . Our only fix so far, is plugs then epoxy=no seeping
I used high temp RTV and I plan to fill the gasket hole void with RTV when I assemble.

The problem is that the holes are too large for the plugs to thread tight.
I'm counting on the RTV to hold them in place and seal them.
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Old 10-29-2006, 01:25 AM   #48
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Old 10-29-2006, 10:41 AM   #49
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Dirthead, while I understand your point very well, you're missing the OTHER point. Why would you do something that could hurt performance? When doing what you did gains you nothing?
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Old 10-29-2006, 10:51 AM   #50
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I hope some people take the fact that the incoming air is only in contact with the "hot" surface for less than a 10th of a second and use common sense when determining the results.
Hmmm, I guess he really doesn't understand heat transfer. In Dirt'* case he doesn't care much because he has the cooling effect of nitrous spaying into his SC inlet.

The same transfer occurs when using any heat transfer device. Look at a radiator or intercooler. The air is only in contact with their surfaces for less than a 10th of a second. Sure there is more surface area but there is a lot of surface area inside a SC and plenums as well.
He would probably argue that there is no heating effect if you leave your intake tube uninsulated.

The only reason I am blocking off my coolant ports is because it will be deadheaded. I'm not done yet so I could modify the adapter plate by drilling a passage.
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