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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 05-22-2006, 12:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llBlazin_llLo
There is L27'* out their just as fast as some L67'* and some that are putting down more torque then L67'* with nitrous without having problems with the diff.
And most of those are RWD configuration with a different trans and differential.

By the time you beef up what you need to on an L27 in order to make it reliably hold the power (particularly the low-end torque), you could have sold your car and purchased an L67 powered vehicle.
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:22 PM   #12
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I'm talking FWD here... What needs to be upgraded to handle the power?
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:39 PM   #13
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To hold the power reliably:

Trans rebuild to begin with if you're starting with your old higher mileage 4T60.
Output housing from the trans (yes, the L67 gets a beefier one, just like the old caddy'*).
Drive axles.
Differential.
Second gear clutches should be done as well (bare minimum). They take a beating under the L67.
Rods and pistons (L67'* don't use floating wrist pins like the L27 does).

Now we move on to the other components:
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM
Engine wiring harness
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque

Or simply a full swap to save the money and labor/time. Or better yet, sell the car and buy an SSEi.

BlazinLo, while I admire your 'you can do it' attitude, we try very hard to make sure people get the 'big picture' on this Forum. Our goal is to insure people get the performance and reliability to make their experience better. Saving money and time is a big thing for us.
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
To hold the power reliably:

Trans rebuild to begin with if you're starting with your old higher mileage 4T60.
Output housing from the trans (yes, the L67 gets a beefier one, just like the old caddy'*).
Drive axles.
Differential.
Second gear clutches should be done as well (bare minimum). They take a beating under the L67.
Rods and pistons (L67'* don't use floating wrist pins like the L27 does).
Ryan car is just as fast as a stock '92-'93 SSEi. His diff is having no problems with that power. Kyle never had a problem with his diff, pistons/rods and he was putting more torque/hp down then 90% of Series 1 L67'*.

If you are really worried about the trans just do the swap and keep a stock or even underdrive the supercharger. That will give you more power then a regular modded L27.

Quote:
Now we move on to the other components:
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM (CHIP)
Engine wiring harness (DONT NEED IT)
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67) (FACTORY PUMP WILL BE HAVE MORE THEN ENOUGH TO KEEP UP)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque
All those parts you can get for around $500. Also if anything a L27'* factory mounts are going to be in better shape then a factory mount on a L67 since it hasn't seen the same amount of power that a L67 has all its life.

Quote:
Or simply a full swap to save the money and labor/time. Or better yet, sell the car and buy an SSEi.
It is hard to find a good condition Bonnie. Look are Ryan'* case... Ryan car is powered by a L27, Ryan'* car is mint with not that many miles on it - It is going to make more sense to do a supercharger swap on his car other then try to find a '94-'95 SSEi in his condition.

Quote:
BlazinLo, while I admire your 'you can do it' attitude, we try very hard to make sure people get the 'big picture' on this Forum. Our goal is to insure people get the performance and reliability to make their experience better. Saving money and time is a big thing for us.
I do agree with you that in some situations it would be better for someone to just sell their Bonne or do a full swap but that is not the case for all.
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Now we move on to the other components:
Supercharger with BCS and BCA
Throttle Body
MAF sensor
PCM (CHIP)
Engine wiring harness (DONT NEED IT)
Accessory brackets
PS pump
All idlers and tensioners
LIM
Fuel Injectors
Fuel pump (L27 pump is different than L67) (FACTORY PUMP WILL BE HAVE MORE THEN ENOUGH TO KEEP UP)
Fuel rail (unsure about the FPR but possible)
Crank pulley and belts
Associated gaskets
Motor/trans mounts should be done at this time due to increased torque
Quote:
All those parts you can get for around $500.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!! You have GOT to be kidding me! A */C alone will cost you $500...
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:23 PM   #16
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Kyle'* car never saw boost at the low end. And he RARELY used it, and he only had the juice on the car for a very short period of time.

Ryan who?

Quote:
If you are really worried about the trans just do the swap and keep a stock or even underdrive the supercharger. That will give you more power then a regular modded L27.
Sortof defeats the whole purpose, doesn't it?

Quote:
All those parts you can get for around $500
Assuming you're a bargain hunter, sure. You can also get a full swap setup including subframe for that price. Assuming you're a bargain hunter.

Quote:
It is hard to find a good condition Bonnie.
BS. I have (at all times) at least a dozen SSEi'* or SC/SLE'* available within 200 miles of me. And they're far more affordable than they were 3 years ago.
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Kyle'* car never saw boost at the low end. And he RARELY used it, and he only had the juice on the car for a very short period of time.
Kyle'* car saw N20 though. N20 does raise TQ too! Actually it was prob. harder on the trans engine then boost/supercharger would have been.

Quote:
Ryan who?
C-C-C-Carter

Quote:
Quote:
If you are really worried about the trans just do the swap and keep a stock or even underdrive the supercharger. That will give you more power then a regular modded L27.
Sortof defeats the whole purpose, doesn't it?
Some people just want to be a little faster or even just in the SSEi area.

Quote:
Quote:
All those parts you can get for around $500
Assuming you're a bargain hunter, sure. You can also get a full swap setup including subframe for that price. Assuming you're a bargain hunter.
Bargain hunter? It is quite easy to find all that stuff cheep. Goto the junk yard and find a blown up L67 BAM! $200. Ryan got all those iteams for $300 and they only had 15K miles on them.

Quote:
Quote:
It is hard to find a good condition Bonnie.
BS. I have (at all times) at least a dozen SSEi'* or SC/SLE'* available within 200 miles of me. And they're far more affordable than they were 3 years ago.
Then find me a '94-'95 SSEi around my area with 70,000 miles on it with no rust, not one dent/scratch, perfect clearcoat, perfect interior, etc. You will not find it!
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Kyle'* car saw N20 though. N20 does raise TQ too! Actually it was prob. harder on the trans engine then boost/supercharger would have been.
hard to belive that... What about long term effects?

Quote:
Bargain hunter? It is quite easy to find all that stuff cheep. Goto the junk yard and find a blown up L67 BAM! $200. Ryan got all those iteams for $300 and they only had 15K miles on them.
Hope you have a 2nd vehicle, because you'd be continously working on that car with used parts that you have no clue the condition they are in.

Quote:
Then find me a '94-'95 SSEi around my area with 70,000 miles on it with no rust, not one dent/scratch, perfect clearcoat, perfect interior, etc. You will not find it!
Um, why does it have to be a 94 or 95? I'll offer to search for you if you give me your Zip Code
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:50 PM   #19
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Ryan Carter is an engine builder by trade. That being said, the only timeslip I see from him is almost 2 years old, and was 15.771.

I wasn't aware of any top end changes in his car.

Quote:
~ Current Mods ~
American Eagle Alloy 077 series 18"*
Hancook 245/45/18
Custom Cold Air intake w/box and K/N
Drill 180 stat
A/C Delco Platium Plugs
Bosch 8mm Plug Wires
MAF Screen Removed
Upgraded Alternator Wire
B&M 28,000GVW Trans cooler w/Braded lines and custom fittings
Headlight cover
L. Plate cover
Tinted taillights
Tinted windows 35% all the way around
Undercoated
Flowmaster 80 series muffler
Urathan sway bar endlink kits
Ceramic pads
Painted Calipers and drums
Converted to dexcool
Trying to keep up with thousands of members is quite difficult. How about some details on his setup? How much boost? How long ago? Track times? What components were added/replaced? I'm not having any luck finding the information posted here.

And what about costs (granted, considering his employment, he'* in a much better position to do this type of work and get bargains when he needs them).

If you have a point to prove, go ahead and try this. You're either going to have a lower performing car (compared to an SSEi), a less reliable drivetrain, or greater expense out of pocket compared to the other two preferred options.
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driverjohn2005
Quote:
Kyle'* car saw N20 though. N20 does raise TQ too! Actually it was prob. harder on the trans engine then boost/supercharger would have been.
hard to belive that... What about long term effects?
Nitrous is never used off the line. Including his. Sure it adds torque. But not WHERE the L67 setup does. Only an idiot hits it right off the line with a FWD V6.
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