Colder Copper Spark Plug #'s For 4.6L Running Nitrous - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 04-16-2006, 12:48 PM   #21
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Not mine either but I believe .008 is about as small as you can go from what the plug calls for without seriously affecting drivability.? I'm bad about doing things till the last minute and with 3 bottles gone it'* time to call Zex Tech support and sort it out. I'm going on general info from web site thus far. and after watching a video of a Mustang GT that is stock other than a 4.33 rear end and has the same nitrous jet combo'* I installed, I want to achieve a similar level of performance. A video of Mustang is here
on last reply to page http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=38164

I just gotta get my *** in gear before those platinum plugs turn to glow plugs and predetonate the mix.
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Old 04-16-2006, 02:02 PM   #22
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I'd stick with Autolight copper'*, they are cheaper then NGK'* and from what I have seen take more KR away. They don't last as long as NGK'* but with nitrous your going to be changing your plugs alot anyways. I'd at least run 104'* for a 75 shot with a gap around .035". Anything bigger then a 75 shot and I'd drop down to 103'* or even 103R'*.

You should start looking into a way to start pulling timing. I'd start pulling 1-2 degrees for every 50 shot you add. Now I know that seems stupid when your looking for performance but a 50 shot is going to add more HP then a degree or two of timing. Once you start getting up their (in shots) pulling timing will allow you to run bigger shots safer.

Is this a wet setup? If not you should start looking at bigger injectors. Also where are you injecting? I'm guessing right into the intake? That is going to limit you to what what shot your going to be able to use just because it doesn't evenly inject into each cylinder.

Either way you should look Into a fuel pressure gauge and a way to get more fuel pressure. Simple and cheep ways to do this is to raise voltage to the fuel pump. An Easy Performance alt. rewire, Easy Performance voltage booster, a custom fuel pump rewire, and upgrading your engine/battery grounds will give you more head room for extra fuel.

As with any nitrous application the higher octane fuel you use the better. Not only will it decrease KR but it will also lower your EGT'*. If you delete your cat and run a Denso 02 you will be able to safely run leaded gas which will allow you to run even higher octane and it will save the wallet a lil'.
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Old 04-16-2006, 02:41 PM   #23
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I cant adjust timing, the Norstar has a locked PCM and I have heard for 2 years somebody will get it cracked and have no faith in that . The Northstar has predetonation sensors and pulls timing on demand to a varied set of conditions and does well at both the 75 shot and the 125 shot also, but I have steering problems at the 125 level.

I stretched the OEM Goodyear RSA'* onto inside offset aftermarket wheels that call for 18/50/265. The reason for the offsets is I have ordered front air bag struts to drop front end to the ground. The new tires will have to go on before I take it to a track. I want some E.T.'* for reference but wont be doing on a regular basis. The car is being built for Custom Shows and once I have some solid E.T.'*, it wont be seeing that level of power again. I'm very happy with the way it responds to the 75 Hp shot in street level performance and thats where it will stay after a few track runs. My Body mods are near $10,000 and climbing fast. Thats where my real interest is. So if there'* anything you can add considering these things, I really appreciate it

I have a wet nitrous kit that injects gas as well as nitrous into the TB. It is TPS regulated and the gas is governed by bottle pressure. and the kit comes with 75, 125, and 150Hp orifices for the jet. The jet is installed up against the maf sensor just before the rubber boot going to TB. The car performs seamlessly at the 75 shot as is. And I need recommendations for that level. Pictures of the install are here.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=52111

The car is registered in NY and I cant delete the cat.

Increasing Voltage doesnt sound like a good idea for a new car that already has wire harness problems and TSB'*. Though Zex makes an in line high pressure fuel pump. I just dont feel it'* necessay at the 75 level. If car doesnt do well at track with the 125 shot I'll cosider that. Just another pretty thing to point to at Shows.

Thanks for the interest Blazin, few members here have any experience with nitrous and there is nothing available in the way of reflashes, injectors et.al., for this motor.
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Old 04-16-2006, 04:38 PM   #24
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GXP Rules Wrote:
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So can ya give me the AC Delco Racing # you use, I dont want to make a debate about it but I've found keeping with the OEM manufacturer regardless of which seems to work best.
The part number for the AC Delco Racing Spark Plugs is 441LT. If anyone is interested I got 64 brand new plugs in the shop, available for sale. Will also fit any engine running the NGK TR55 size spark plug.

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Old 04-16-2006, 04:49 PM   #25
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If thats one range colder and copper I take 16, do you have paypal? and how much
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Old 04-16-2006, 06:40 PM   #26
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For the street then I'd run a 2 range colder plugs @ .045" if your going to be running a 75 shot like how you have been doing the last few days. You might also want to look into a FWI, PEM'*, 3" downpipe, drilled 180* t-stat, manual fan switch. All these will be fairly cheep and will not only improve you performance (and safty) but improve your gas mileage.

If the cars drag strip career is going to be shortlived then for the track I'd just throw in some Autolight 103'* (Maybe 103R'*) @ .035", VP109 (109 unleaded), and change out the t-stat to a drilled 180*.

The drilled is VERY important for the track because running nitrous will increase cylinder pressure very quickly thus increasing engine heat really quickly (= more KR). Running a drilled t-stat will keep you from getting KR on the backhalf of the 1/4 mile.

Don't expect the PCM to save your engine by retarding timing. If your PCM starts to retard timing then KR has already happend (PCM is reacting to what has already happend). It will only take a blip of high KR to blow your engine. The PCM will not even have a chance to react.
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:07 PM   #27
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WHOOOA there so much you guys misunderstand, the N* It already has a 2 and half inch cold air intake behind headlight assembly completely sealed from engine compartment that draws cold air from ground level updraft , Though I'm considering widening the tube between the two stage airbox on mine. It'* a pretty clear shot from pipe to TB without restictive bends that limit Hp gains on non */C motors.

Cant use pems on a N*. ..

.It comes with a two stage radiator fan already and can push air instead of gas into 4 cylinders alternating if I were to hit 235 degrees, but I havent gone over 210 with nitrous. The N* LD8 PCM comes from Caddy and is so complex and does tricks I've never heard of and remains locked after years of people trying to crack it.
But the manual switch does sound like a little extra insurance and rather not take chances on it going into heat recovery mode.

The N* already comes with a 180 degree thermostat stock because it an all aluminum engine. And going lower than stock will only make the N* PCM do things to combat. Aftermarket products for the N* are nill.... Nada.... can I have an OEM drilled out?

I live in an area where that kind of octane is only available at a track I have to do a little traveling to get to but the 93 seems to work well on the street

And the drag racing will be very short lived and just for reference and bragging rights for Shows and I hope some magazines. The jeweled paint job, wheels, and tires has cost almost 7 grand and I shelled out an additional 2 grand for an awesome 4 corner DOT certified air bag strut suspension to drop or lower front or back at will and havent even factored in installation cost yet so I hope you can understand it'* limited career on the strip.

I have become very interested in quater mileing since joining the club and storing up quite a database all of the great things you guys have done and will most likely pick up a older SSEI for that purpose once my car is done enough to put in shows.
Preferably a Series 1 since i have two good non */C running ones in my back yard. (had a Park Ave Ultra with */C but never thought of the tuna boat as a sports car

So .045 can be run on a .060 plug and maintain drivability?
I prefer to use AC Delco and cost doesnt matter. are the ones shown above ok?

And gas mileage does suck but that kind of money doesnt bother me. Went from 14MPG before to 11.8 MPG with a bottle used on the parway here and I posted the pic of DIC in N* mpg thread because I couldnt believe it...

Again I thank you Blazin and you have given me more to consider... much more
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