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Old 01-29-2006, 03:01 AM   #1
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Default Cam install

For the longest time I was planing on doing rockers but I've changed my mind. When I get my tax return ca$h I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy a XP hot cam (with togs soon after hopefully). I think I'm going to have ZZP or Intense install it for me since I'm not going to try to tackle that. Anyone with a cam where did you get it installed and how did that go for you (ie time, cash, service....)?
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Old 01-29-2006, 03:58 AM   #2
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With the cam, you will have to replace the lifters and highly recommended to do springs, pushrods and timing chain. Will also need a top end gasket set and fresh coolant.
Labour will be about 5 hours at a good shop. So for about $500 in parts and $350 in labour you should be good to go.

Almost forgot the 3.0 pulley.
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Old 01-29-2006, 04:08 AM   #3
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Yeah I've already got the springs and pushrods, timing chain figured into what it will cost me. Pretty much forgot about the lifters though. Aren't stock injectors good to a 3.0 or is that a toss up with that size? I just got stock size injectors put in about ~150 miles ago lol. ZZP & Intense list their cost of cam install @ 550 & 600. I've been thinking maybe I can get this done @ Intense since I have a cousin in the Columbus area I could hang with in the mean time.
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Old 01-29-2006, 04:11 AM   #4
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I believe that the stock 36 lb injectors are good down to 3.0 pulley. That'* what I'm running now in this cool weather. The torque is impressive. Lights both tires at any city speed.
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Old 01-29-2006, 04:44 AM   #5
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Typical cam installs for our cars start in the $400 range and go up from there. The $550 and $600 that ZZP & Intense charge is right on par. Personally, I'd download a write up if I were you and do it myself. Its not too bad, and as long as you set aside a whole weekend and just take your time it shouldn't be too hard to do. But if not, join your local GP club and have someone in the club help you with the cam swap that has done it before. The money you save from the install could buy you some more mods. There is really nothing hard about it, there is just a lot of things you need to do. While I have had a bit of experience with engines, I did my first L67 cam swap with ease when I was 17...

Stock injectors should be good down to a 2.8 or 2.9" pulley depending on your mods and whatnot. I wouldn't worry about injectors in your case until you get a few more mods.

Shawn
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Old 01-29-2006, 06:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
With the cam, you will have to replace the lifters and highly recommended to do springs, pushrods and timing chain. Will also need a top end gasket set and fresh coolant.
Labour will be about 5 hours at a good shop. So for about $500 in parts and $350 in labour you should be good to go.

Almost forgot the 3.0 pulley.
Lifters? never heard that? Most people I have heard have said to stay away from them. For an XP, springs and modified retainers are a must. You could prob. get away with a new OEM timing chain and dampner. But I would double check that with ZZP when you order the cam.
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
With the cam, you will have to replace the lifters and highly recommended to do springs, pushrods and timing chain. Will also need a top end gasket set and fresh coolant.
Labour will be about 5 hours at a good shop. So for about $500 in parts and $350 in labour you should be good to go.

Almost forgot the 3.0 pulley.
L67'* have roller lifters. They can be reused with a new cam because they don't really develop a wear pattern to the cam like flat tappet lifters do. I guess people have been having problems with the comp cams ones anyways, so if the lifters are replaced, it would be a good idea to use stock ones instead of aftermarket.

We never replaced the lifters in the GTP and it seems to be running pretty well.

Shawn
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:58 AM   #8
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Stock lifters are good to about 6500. Above that they tend to disintegrate and CC lifters should be used. Stronger springs and enough clearance in the heads is a must for your cam'* overall valve lift. You can either use milled retainers to give a little extra clearance or you can have your valve guides milled in the heads to accomodate. Overall valve lift can be figured by rocker ratio size (stock is 1.6) X largest lift number in the cam (usually exhaust). Example 1.6X.325=.520 . Stock heads have enough room for .520 to .526 valve lift. With any cam I recommend a stronger timing chain such as the rollmaster (single is fine).

If you decide to do it yourself, be sure to change the oil afterwards and run it for about 5-10 minutes and change the oil again to make sure you have no coolant contamination.
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:54 PM   #9
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I have a cam question that is a little off topic but along the same lines:

If you were swap a mild cam into a L67 is it still reccomended to change the lifters, springs, timing chain, push rod etc??
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Old 01-29-2006, 01:35 PM   #10
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Some people will probably take issue with my opinion, but I don't think you necessarily need to change anything besides the actual cam. It depends completely on the cam profile, but if you're talking about an IS1 or VS you can probably get away with using completely stock parts. It might be recommended to change stuff out, but if you're not shooting for cutting-edge performance you should be fine with a stock valvetrain.

I'm an L36, but we used stock lifters and pushrods in my setup. The timing chain is new, but it'* equivalent to stock. We didn't use a Rollmaster set. I was going to use stock valvesprings, but I got a set of low mileage LS6 springs for only $30, so I couldn't refuse the opportunity to upgrade. However, I firmly believe my stock springs would have worked flawlessly on my current setup and tune.
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