Thats a lot of good brake info thanks.

We're not all street racers and have limited funds to invest on upgraded brakes. For this reason going with a stronger service duty brake rotor makes good economical sense. Taxi cabs and police cars use slotted brakes for their dependability and sure grip stopping force. Drilled rotors do not hold up as well and the warp tradeoff leads to cracks in the rotors?

Despite the manufacturers claims of drilled rotors and its benefits, I have a 4000 lb boat worth 7 times as much (to me) so I will use a proven rotor by a supplier that specializes in stopping 4000 lb boats

RSM slotted for me

You haven't seen me drive

Wren i can guarantee you that you don't drive the way that line is suggesting

I think the biggest things that every one overlooked is:

1. that with slotted you don't want the slot to go all the way to the edge because expansion caused by heating will cause cracking

Right



Wrong




2. slotted and slotted/cross-drilled may not be suitable for lower temperature and low demand use.. They can hinder the braking capabilities due to the fact that they will need higher temps to work efficiently.

3. Slotted surfaces are recommended for track use only

4. The slots will slice the brake pad allowing the pad to bite harder into the disc causing an increase in disc temperatures. This is recommended for competition vehicles to bring pad and disc temperatures up into optimal operating temperatures.

I got to looking at another website concerning brakes and there was a question about Porshes having holes cast in the rotor which led me to this:

Corner-Carvers Forum

I replaced my rotors/pads because one of the rotors was so warped that when I stepped on the brake it was like going over speed bumps. I did a bunch of thinking/rethinking at the time also (as in this thread) and decided to go with cross-drilled on the theory that the increased cooling surface area and greater ventilation would keep temps down and thereby prevent warpage of the small diameter rotor on such a heavy car. I put some faith in the quality of the aftermarket rotor also and decided to install ceramic pads (to keep my cross-laced wheels clean) even though I know those pads have a reputation for generating high temps. Since stopping power is also a function of clamping force, I wasn't concerned about the holes decreasing the friction surface area (press pedal harder or add hi perf brake hoses, but probably negligible effect on a street car anyway).

I bought PowerStop rotors ($160/pr) because the BruteStop and SuperStop pieces were too expensive, and not generally available (SuperStop) and I don't think the Raybestos parts were plated.

So far so good: One year now (~10K mi) since install and smooth as silk braking still (and with the QuietStop pads my wheels stay clean too!). Breaking in this combination of rotor/pad requires a very light foot for the first miles while the pads bed in the rotors to avoid transferring chunks of pad to the rotor (scrape and remove if this happens).