What about making custom ducts and using a 12V computer fan wired to a switch to use while Racing? Not sure if it will work or not, but sounds like a viable Idea that can be done for cheap money, and you dont have to be doing a million MPH to attain enough wind to cool the rotors. Just a geek aproach to it.

i would also recommending flushing and upgrading to DOT4 or 5 brake fluid. This will help withstand the heat a lot better, and also DOT 5 will prevent moisture developing in the fluid

I'm trying to avoid synthetic brake fluid (because of what I heard it can do to your rubber brake lines) however I am using very high temp brake fluid.

This would be for the 97, not the 91.

from my experience; most harm in brake fluid comes from people putting DOT 3 in DOT 5 systems; I'm actually unfamiliar with issues with upgrading to synth, but i also haven't done a lot of research on it.

Unless the factory specifies it do not use DOT 5. Use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1.
The DOT 5 fluids are silicone based the DOT 1-4 and 5.1 are glycol ether based.
The glycol ether fluids will absorb water reducing their boiling point. Silicon fluids do not absorb water; the moisture that gets into the system through the cap vent will bead up and collect in the low areas such as the calipers. (water it heavier) When the caliper reaches 212F that water will boil and you will not have brakes. Silicon fluid can do other nasty things to systems not designed for it.


Merlin, do you know how hot your brakes are getting? What compound pads are you using? If your brakes are getting too hot any air flow will help, the closer you can get it to the hub side center of the rotor the better. Do you have splash shields behind the rotors? If you do you can try removing them or modify them so you can connect a duct hose to them.

Greyhare,

I know that typically by the 2nd lap the ABS light is on. (I guess our cars shut off the ABS/TC when the brake fluid gets too hot), so they easily pass that temp.

When you say "the closer you can get it to the hub side center of the rotor the better" do you mean basically the close I can get to the inside of the rotor? (I may need a diagram...hehe)

Has anyone ever used any ATE products?
They have a brake fluid they call "SL6".
http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www/...bf_sl6_us.html
.. and their rotors have an odd design to them.
http://www.ate-http://na.com/generator/www/us/en/at...rotors_us.html
The only reason I ask is because the rotors are on sale @ CT this week.

This is from another Auto forum I frequent, it'* a kit that'* been built to cool BMW brakes. It was posted because a guy cracked an aftermarket hardened, drilled, and slotted rotor after buzzing around the Nurburgring last week.

I am not familiar with that specific brake fluid but, ATE fluids are quite good. The ATE "Super blue" and "Type 200" are good street/track fluids. (They are actually the same but the type 200 does not have the blue dye. The blue dye has been known to cause seal damage on some calipers.)

As far as cooling is concerned you want to get the air flow as close as possible to the rotational center of the rotor on the back side. (Axle side.)

What pad compound are you using on the track?

I've used Hawk pads in the past.
Right now I'm trying to decide want compound to use this year.
I might try Williams pads this year, if the price is right.

Jason.... interesting kit... but I wonder if it would fit on ours.
How do the blue parts connect?


http://jtdesigns.stores.yahoo.net/e3brakcoolki.html
These are the only installed pix I could find.

Hawk what? Blue, HT10?

Even if the BMW kit doesn't fit it should give you some good ideas.
Getting any air flow near the back side of the rotors will help.