Saying 3800s have head issues, suggesting mating a 5 speed to a 3400 would be much easier, and needing more room.

Iron heads may not be better for cooling, but in a boosted application, they will be less prone to warp or lift.
Have you ever read of a machined 3800 flywheel failing?
You regal engine bay is much different than the H-body. There is no need to torque the engine forward as the rear bank is easily accessible.

there are pros and cons to each, that'* the point i was trying to make.

actually no i have not. you got me there but it'* not just a bolt on like the 3400. my Getrag uses a mount that sits on the subframe, right where the 4T60 used to. i'm hoping that would be the same in an H-body since they also use the 4T60, but i won't know until i try i guess.

i'm not sure what you're saying here. i don't need to torque the engine forward to do ANY work to the rear bank on my Cutlass or Regal. i even helped a friend install 1.9 rockers in his GTP without pulling the engine forward, same with plugs.

can I suggest that you're coming across as being a little uninformed and cocky to boot?

the people who have posted are trying to help you, not hurt you. 95naSTA and willwren are two of the most respected members here, and have tried more with their vehicles than just about anyone else. they know the ins and outs of these cars and trying to get performance out of them.

You'd be wise to listen and take what they say in to account, rather than get defensive.

I'll save my rant on the 60 degree vs. 90 degree, but a little time researching the warranty issues of both would net most of the reasons most here prefer the 90 degree family.

I have to rock my engine forward on my 90 Regal with the LH0 to do the plugs. There is about an inch to the firewall. And although its not 100% necessary, it makes it easier to get the the rear bank on my buddies 98 regal gs.
All I'm really trying to say is there is much more room to the firewall compared to the W-body and more room pretty much anywhere else.
If you want to see a pic of the the L36/L67 t/a mount, check out the rebuilding an L36 sticky.

You sound a little contradictory in the above comments. Anyway, one thing is certain, the H-body has much more room in the engine bay than a W-body. I can change the rear plugs in mine in less than 5 minutes, there'* nothing to move, just slide right down there, remove the wire, undo the plug, insert new one, torque then plug the wire back on.

It'* nothing like an hour of fighting the SII L67 in your GS as you mentioned.

Cheers,

i'm defending what i want to do is all. i don't know why anyone would "rant" about the 60* Chevrolet V6 vs. the 90* Buick V6. they are both great engines that are well known for reliablilty and dependability that perform very well with boost! sure they both have their pros and cons that must be weighed. which is what i'm trying to do here. so um, were you going to add anything worthwhile to the topic at hand?

anyway, i think i know what i'm going to have to do. i'm going to have to just try it and be on my own. this same type of thread would happen over at 60degree v6.com if i were to suggest that i wanted to install an L67 into a '93 Cavalier Z24. everyone would be against it. which is really childish considering both engines are great like i mentioned above.

i just happen to own both engines and love them both. the problem is, i want a '92-'95 SSE/SSEi but no 60*V6 ever came in them. so some fabrication is obviously going to have to happen. no one here seems to want to help much except 95naSTA (thank you) and a suggestion from GAMEOVER (again thank you) but others are clammering on about staying with the 3800. which isn't what this topic is about. i want to know what it takes to install a 60*V6 in a '92-'95 H-body. big deal. if you don't know or have any ideas to share than please ignore this topic. remember this forum'* description:

sound like your dogbones and/or engine and trans mount might be shot if your engine is sitting that far back (an inch between the firewall and plugs is nuts!). mine is more like 6-8". i have to use a 6" extension on the driver'* side rear plug. the other two plugs just require a 3" extension. no U-joints btw. i simply unbolt the alternator and lay it aside then go in from the passenger side to do the rear plugs, valve cover gasket, exhaust manifold, rockers, etc. same goes for O2 sensor but my O2 sensor is now in the turbine housing on my LH0 (which is actually a really stupid place for it but whatever).

the engine bay room is seriously one of the last things i'm concerned about. i think that may have gotten blown out of proportion. it proably took me so long to do the plugs due to the learning curve i had to get through (i've only owned the Regal GS 6 months now and that'* the most work "in depth" work i've had to do to it). i know how big the engine bay is compared to a W-body, after all i used to own a '94 SSE (and i did do the plugs on that engine heh). the main reason i want to do this is to be different, i'm more familiar with the 60*V6, and i already have a 3400 and am more familiar with them. it was just an idea i had that i thought i would throw out there.

i suppose if i ended up with an already supercharged '92-'95 Bonneville i would just stick with the Series I 'L67' and either work with the M62 or dive in and turbocharge it if 350whp wasn't possible with the M62. but if i were to end up with an 'L27' SSE, i think that engine would have to go...and that'* where the idea for the 3400 came in really. i'm currently trying to buy my brother'* '94 Bonneville SSE back from him (actually a cash/trade deal for my Regal GS) but we'll see how that works out. i'd rather have the Bonneville and no car loan than the Regal with its car loan. then i could keep my Turbo Cutlass to boot (i don't have room for 3 cars or else i'd keep the GS).

i do apologize if i am coming off as defensive, but i really just want some on-topic answers; not just "stick with the 3800".

thanks

FWIW I think this is going over much better than if the opposite was proposed over at 60*v6. They usually lock those threads.

I think the main objection to this project is the practibility. There are a lot of issues you will have to tackle that wouldn't be there if you set out to get the same power with a L67.
But, hey, you know that, and your set on the boosted 3400, so give it a shot. Just realize your dealing with a 3800 forum and not too many people are going to see your point of view.

I was trying, but I don't think you're listening.

I'm not 'clammoring' over staying with the 3800, and I'm not wasting space. I'm saying, you're asking for help, and people are offering up some good advice. And taking a negative attitude about it because they have a different idea based on their experience with these vehicles is not the best way in the world to go about getting help.

In any event, if it floats your boat, good luck, and let us know how it turns out -