'96 series II CAI with pics and part numbers
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Posts like a 4 Banger
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SW Indiana

Just installed an Auto Zone pipe and K & N filter on a '96 SSE L36 series II. It has the single washer fluid jug but the PCM was in the way. I pulled the box, removed the plastic mount and laid it on it'* side with some padded material below it to protect wires. Also re-routed one line coming from the charcoal canister.
Auto Zone pipe part # 8219 $42.00 (cut down by 4" for my application)
K & N RX-4750 from AJ USA $49.00
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilte...27e2373051b38a
Silicone 4" - 3" reducer part number PWRR40-300/400 $26.00
http://www.pwr-performance.com/coupler.htm
$117.00 for parts and about 2.5 hours to install. That covers everything but the heat shield which will have to wait for another day.
I also found that a small air die-grinder with a 1/2" machine bit works very nice for enlarging the "air intake temp. sensor" hole in the back of the K & N filter. My bit was just slightly less than 1/2" dia. and the sensor fit nice and snug. Word of caution. Make sure you carefully clean all rubber residue from inside the filter before installing.
Tumbleweed




Auto Zone pipe part # 8219 $42.00 (cut down by 4" for my application)
K & N RX-4750 from AJ USA $49.00
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/knfilte...27e2373051b38a
Silicone 4" - 3" reducer part number PWRR40-300/400 $26.00
http://www.pwr-performance.com/coupler.htm
$117.00 for parts and about 2.5 hours to install. That covers everything but the heat shield which will have to wait for another day.
I also found that a small air die-grinder with a 1/2" machine bit works very nice for enlarging the "air intake temp. sensor" hole in the back of the K & N filter. My bit was just slightly less than 1/2" dia. and the sensor fit nice and snug. Word of caution. Make sure you carefully clean all rubber residue from inside the filter before installing.
Tumbleweed




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Posts like a Camaro
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Jenison, MI (Near Grand Rapids)

Looks good.
Did your coupling fit snugly on the TB, or did you have to make a kind of bushing between the two?
Is the PCM secured somehow, or just sitting there?
What have you got planned for the enclosure?
Did your coupling fit snugly on the TB, or did you have to make a kind of bushing between the two?
Is the PCM secured somehow, or just sitting there?
What have you got planned for the enclosure?
Thread Starter
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Posts like a 4 Banger
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SW Indiana

The 4" coupler was about 1/8" to large but the silicone material is very plyable and the hose clamp brought it down to size and I'm happy with it.
I don't have anything securing the PCM right now but I'm not completly satisfied with that part of the project. I would like to hear some good ideas from somebody thats done this before. I plan to make a thin soft rubber support to go under the PCM and then strap it down with a zip tie. Sounds kind of crude but, hey, whatever works!
I have a little part time side business making some specialized plexi-glass products so I'll probably grab some scrap pieces and start playing. I'll post a pic when I get something I like.
I don't have anything securing the PCM right now but I'm not completly satisfied with that part of the project. I would like to hear some good ideas from somebody thats done this before. I plan to make a thin soft rubber support to go under the PCM and then strap it down with a zip tie. Sounds kind of crude but, hey, whatever works!
I have a little part time side business making some specialized plexi-glass products so I'll probably grab some scrap pieces and start playing. I'll post a pic when I get something I like.
Thread Starter
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Posts like a 4 Banger
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 133
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From: SW Indiana

Engine horsepower, for the most part, is limited by the amount of air that can flow into the intake and out of the exhaust. Anything you can do to increase air flow will increase horsepower and effiecency. That'* why turboed and supercharged enginges make massive amounts of power even with very few cubic inches. The modification pictured above improves air flow by discarding the factory plastic airbox (restriction), replacing the paper filter element with a K & N filter (reduces restriction) and replaces the accordian shaped rubber hose fittings with smooth piping and straight couplers that do not disturb the flow of air. In theory I guess the most effiecent intake would be a smooth pipe catching fresh air with no air filter at all but the dirt cruising through your engine would't be good!
Cooler air is much denser than warmer air. When I finish building an enclosure around the back of the filter as Will pointed out
, it will draw cooler fresh air from behind the headlight instead of hot air warmed from engine heat.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question395.htm
Thats a start. I'm sure the gurus around here will link you to the threads where this has been discussed at length.
Tumbleweed
Cooler air is much denser than warmer air. When I finish building an enclosure around the back of the filter as Will pointed out
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question395.htm
Thats a start. I'm sure the gurus around here will link you to the threads where this has been discussed at length.
Tumbleweed



