'93 SE Engine mounts.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,042
Likes: 5
From: Texarkana, Texas

Has anybody come up with a cheap engine mount mod to keep it in check? I've just ripped my custom 3/8" plate mount clean out of the subframe. This is a southern car, no rust.
EDIT: heh, 167K posts since my last visit, busy bunch eh?
EDIT: heh, 167K posts since my last visit, busy bunch eh?
I'm assuming you mean the front trans mount?
Yup.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=86901
Read all the way through to find the final version. I broke that too, and went with a stronger rod. So far it'* holding up very nicely (took me a bit to break the last version in that link).
Yup.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=86901
Read all the way through to find the final version. I broke that too, and went with a stronger rod. So far it'* holding up very nicely (took me a bit to break the last version in that link).
Thread Starter
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,042
Likes: 5
From: Texarkana, Texas

Ah, much easier to build than the mount I'm running, My current mount is simply a 3/8" cube with the faces rotated to meet the block and subframe. My first CNC project 
Might just section the subframe and lay in a section of 3/8" plate for the top section to lessen the chance of fatigue, then grab another stock '93 mount and drill it per your link.
What sort rod did you end up with? I'd assume 1/2" grade 8 bolt would do the job, assuming it had rolled threads. The cut threads on allthread leave all sorts of stress risers, as you saw with your second version.
Have you noticed increased wear to the dogbone coming off the diff yet? It seems that the rear drivers' mount ends up taking a bunch of force, then the dogbone ends up taking some too.

Might just section the subframe and lay in a section of 3/8" plate for the top section to lessen the chance of fatigue, then grab another stock '93 mount and drill it per your link.
What sort rod did you end up with? I'd assume 1/2" grade 8 bolt would do the job, assuming it had rolled threads. The cut threads on allthread leave all sorts of stress risers, as you saw with your second version.
Have you noticed increased wear to the dogbone coming off the diff yet? It seems that the rear drivers' mount ends up taking a bunch of force, then the dogbone ends up taking some too.
I used ASTM hardened 3/8" my second time. Less will do for you, you don't deliver the torque I do. Standard grade 3/8" will last you a long time.
I replaced my dogbone 2 months ago with the motor swap. I won't see wear on that for awhile.
I replaced my dogbone 2 months ago with the motor swap. I won't see wear on that for awhile.
That was my mistake also.
FYI, I have a cutoff wrench on the back side now. It makes adjustment alot easier. I don't need two people any more.
My next step is to characterize different 'settings' with a torque wrench for street/strip.
FYI, I have a cutoff wrench on the back side now. It makes adjustment alot easier. I don't need two people any more.
My next step is to characterize different 'settings' with a torque wrench for street/strip.
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