1993 SSEi, a few things...
I'll move your topic to Performance. Not much of a mechanical/fix thing so far.
The exhaust isn't much of a bottleneck until you start playing with pulleys. It'* 2.5" mandrel bent stainless. If you pulley down, get a high-flow cat. The muffler swap will be strictly for sound. Most carry stock mufflers into the 13'* on the quarter mile here.
What symptoms is your supercharger exhibiting that you may want to rebuild it for? How long ago was the oil changed? What peak boost are you hitting, and what odd noises is it making?
Read this:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=104
In fact, breezing through Techinfo some evening may answer alot of your questions.
The exhaust isn't much of a bottleneck until you start playing with pulleys. It'* 2.5" mandrel bent stainless. If you pulley down, get a high-flow cat. The muffler swap will be strictly for sound. Most carry stock mufflers into the 13'* on the quarter mile here.
What symptoms is your supercharger exhibiting that you may want to rebuild it for? How long ago was the oil changed? What peak boost are you hitting, and what odd noises is it making?
Read this:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=104
In fact, breezing through Techinfo some evening may answer alot of your questions.
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True Car Nut
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: In your garage, swipin' da lug nutz

Originally Posted by Pontiacs
For a purely street car what would be the limit, and has anybody graphed out the actual amount of boost per pulley size?
I've said it once, twice....many times. I am a BIG fan of restoring lost horsepower as opposed to modding when I first start out. True that you will rarely, if ever, outflow your exhaust...that is, IF you have a good flowing catalyst. If it'* original, chuck it. Same with filters...the fuel filter tends to be forgotten. Follow techinfo on how to check and clean your coils and ICM (and I think it may be time to revise that a little bit...I've found things out on my own during my PCM conversion) to make sure they are at their peak.
I can go on and on, but techinfo and search are your best friends here. But be warned...modding is a risky, addicting, and expensive hobby to get into. And what you do to one system affects others (I.E. smaller pulley = more horsepower = more stress on an already weak transmission). Choose your modifications wisely.
The reason the blower needs rebuilding is that it sounds like a barrel full of rocks at idle. I use the term "rebuilding" loosely, because I'm sure it'* just a bearing gone south. But the only blower I've ever had apart was an ancient factory 6-71, so I'd rather know exactly what I'm replacing and how to get at it before I tear into it.
All maintenance would be done before any peformance mods. I'm more anal than most about the mechanical condition of my vehicles.
All maintenance would be done before any peformance mods. I'm more anal than most about the mechanical condition of my vehicles.
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True Car Nut
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,067
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From: In your garage, swipin' da lug nutz

More than likely it is the coupler that is bad, not the bearings. An easy enough fix, but the charger has to come off the engine to do it. Since it'* off, might as well rehash all of it, and give the throttle body a good soaking.
Rebuilding a supercharger is an easy job to do when compared to say rebuilding an engine...fundamentally, 6-71 Jimmys aren't much different. Take a gander at this:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ers/index.html
Rebuilding a supercharger is an easy job to do when compared to say rebuilding an engine...fundamentally, 6-71 Jimmys aren't much different. Take a gander at this:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ers/index.html
www.rollingperformance.com is a good source for the oil, bearings, and coupler. M90 parts are identical to M62.
You will need a slide-hammer collet bearing puller, or you'll have to do the 'grease gun' method shown on that site. You will need a press to take it apart and put it back together for the nosedrive, and you'll need the press to re-install the rotor bearings.
I agree with Brad. Noise at idle only is a coupler. OR it could be a harmonic balancer, and totally unrelated to the blower. I'll be posting a how-to in the next few days for the slide-hammer bearing removal.
You will need a slide-hammer collet bearing puller, or you'll have to do the 'grease gun' method shown on that site. You will need a press to take it apart and put it back together for the nosedrive, and you'll need the press to re-install the rotor bearings.
I agree with Brad. Noise at idle only is a coupler. OR it could be a harmonic balancer, and totally unrelated to the blower. I'll be posting a how-to in the next few days for the slide-hammer bearing removal.
If you crack the case on an M62 with unknown mileage, replace the needle bearings.
I've ditched the angled drain you saw in favor of a shorter NPT magnetic drain plug in that location, as well as up top in place of the OEM.
I've ditched the angled drain you saw in favor of a shorter NPT magnetic drain plug in that location, as well as up top in place of the OEM.
So I officially know a guy who can completely custom tune the computer if/when I wind up buying it. So that should take care of any KR gremlins and probably net me more power than the one-size-fits-all aftermarket crap.
How would you fix KR mechanically? Eventually, with enough boost you'll run into it no matter what. I did read the article, most of it is common sense. Normal tune up procedure, check fuel pressure, all things I'd do first anyways. Exhaust manifold cracks, that'* good info. I'd build my own CAI and put a high flow cat in. But aside from some sort of intercooling system or race gas, with enough boost it'll happen anyways. Throwing more fuel at it is good common sense, and since it also has a cooling effect it'll help stave off knocking to a point. After all is said and done, if I still wind up with KR all I can do is tune it out.


