S1X cam build? Should I? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-29-2013, 08:56 PM   #1
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Default S1X cam build? Should I?

I've been contemplating a S1X cam swap along with 105# springs and titanium retainers for my car in the near future. My biggest concern is with the way that I've abused (the typical lead foot problem and several 100+ mph jaunts) the car at 154k miles is the motor going to handle it or will I be running into other issues? Do you think the cam bearings will be any good? I've maybe gone over on oil changes twice and as far as I know there hasn't been a large amount of coolant leaks internally ever. As of right now, nothing is wrong with the engine as far as can be told with codes and sound. Oil is always clean and I only use Mobil 1 (if that matters...haven't seen a big difference between Valvoline, Mobil 1, or Royal Purple on other motors) I'd hate to order all the stuff only to find that I need to rebuild the whole motor (something I want to do eventually when I get the money, time, and a new DD) When I do this build the car will have headers and full exhaust along with a new timing chain (double roller). If I do this, I'm gonna try to do it when the trans is out getting rebuilt since i'm going to fix the oil pan leak then too.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:25 PM   #2
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Anytime your doing something this critical, especially when you already tearing half the engine apart just to put this loped rod inside, its best to do it right the first time. (unlike someone I know)

You might as well rebuild it from the ground up and install all your power parts then. That way everything is stripped down, cleaned and ready to be put back together clean. That way you are 100% sure that it should work worry free for the next 100,000 miles.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:44 PM   #3
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i think i would wait till you have a different car to drive. i have found you dont want to mod the car that you count on to get places
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Old 01-02-2014, 03:07 PM   #4
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Well I do have another vehicle and access to about 8 more if something goes wrong with the car..I'm not planning on going completely insane with this car because fuel choices are limited here to begin with (91 octane is the highest I can get without going e85 ( please dont start a rant about how e85 is from the devil) and e85 availability is limited). I'm about maxed out on 91 with the mods I have now. I think the most power id want out of this car is 350-400chp max just so I can somewhat afford to take it on longer trips.
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Old 01-02-2014, 03:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1995 View Post
Anytime your doing something this critical, especially when you already tearing half the engine apart just to put this loped rod inside, its best to do it right the first time. (unlike someone I know)

You might as well rebuild it from the ground up and install all your power parts then. That way everything is stripped down, cleaned and ready to be put back together clean. That way you are 100% sure that it should work worry free for the next 100,000 miles.

I think that'* the route I've decided to go..If the cylinders are in good shape should I just cross hatch them or should I send the block in just in case? Know of anybody that sells reliable piston rings and wrist pins? Kinda want to stay with a stock bore and stroke if I can.
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Old 01-02-2014, 03:16 PM   #6
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Also could somebody give a ball park estimate of complete cost of a rebuild using stock crank and pistons(thinking about throwing in some l32 connecting rods)? I know if any machine work to the block is necessary the price will vary depending on region. I'd kinda like to keep it under a $2000 budget since the tranny is going to run around $3k and it seems like I've only ever got $5-6k to play with every year for now.
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Old 01-02-2014, 04:20 PM   #7
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If you price out the parts themselves, gasket kits, bearings etc, and factor in a couple hundred in labor, that should put in you in a ball park figure for overall cost for the rebuild. You can save a few hundred more if you pull the engine yourself and drop it off at the shop.
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:28 PM   #8
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Well all i got to worry about is parts and machine work. Just not sure of the best places for parts right now. Trying to keep most of this project in house. It'd look kinda bad for a tech to farm out his own engine build, plus I need experience.
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:45 PM   #9
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As long as the engine hasn't spun any bearings or needs any machine work, then you should be able to get away with a in garage rebuild. Just make sure you plastigauge all your bearing clearances.

To avoid getting common cheap parts. Look for re-ring kits for the 3800. Then get the gasket kits custom so you don't get the cheap plastic intake manifold gaskets. You will want the good metal gaskets.

If you have room, a parts washer is a huge plus. One can be made with an old working dishwasher. Just drill a hole in the side of it for the drain hose so it pumps itself back into the tub.(recycle cleaning agent)
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:08 PM   #10
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Should I upgrade to the L32 connecting rods even though a 3.0 pulley on my gen 3 is all the farther I'm going with boost? I know it would all but eliminate worry about rod failure but is it really worth the $400+ (cost of rods and Wrist pins etc) cost with that little amount of boost (I'm getting used to hearing 30+PSI from friends with built diesels and hyped up rice so anything lower than 19PSI is little lol)?
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