You are in luck. Overall..your car is pretty simple to work on. There are quite a few threads on this site about how to change them and the wires.

Bascially though. You'll need a ratchet and a plug socket..it'* the small one..I think 5/8". First rule of changing plugs or wires is do one at a time, if you don't remove more than one..you can never put something back in the wrong place.

Grab the boot of the plug wire at the plug...twist slightly and pull (watch for items your hand could hit and get cut on). Remove the plug.. install new plug. Tightening is snug plus a little more. Then remove the plug wire and select the closest match in length from the new wires. Replace it, and route the new one the same as the old. When putting the boot onto the plug and coil ..you will usually hear a light "click" as they are put on. That'* it..next plug.

As far as the stalling on turns, 92 model year H-bodies have a couple problems in common.

1) The fuel strainer on the pump is too small and when fuel is low, stalling is common on right turns, and sometimes left.

2) The baffles in the tank break off and can block the strainer or let fuel slosh too far away on turns.

Not to say I'm certain you have either problem. If you've ever had the pump replaced, the strainer is most likely a bigger one. But these are possibilities to consider.

well, i went down to the autozone to get my wires. and when i came out the car wouldn't start. it would crank but not start and run. then it stoped cranking all togahter. i let it set for a minute or two then tried again and it turned over fine. now i have a half tank. but when i was cranking it at first it made a high pitched sound before it cut off. don't know what that'* about. but i was just wondering could some of this be due to my throttle body being clogged?

Doubtful.

Sounds like a possible starter issue if it'* not disengaging the flywheel will turn it faster than it should. That usually causes a high squealing noise.

On the not starting. Check the battery cables at all ends and remove the boots by the battery to look for corrosion.

Pull off your ICM and have Autozone test it. All you need to remove is the 3 coil packs and the wiring harness to remove the ICM.

John..they can't test the ICM and have any reliability in their findings if they can.

I thought they could.

They can, it'* just that it'* a hit and miss test. Good ones can test bad, and bad ones can test good. I've had it happen to me with one of my 3100 ICMs.

Well i found the culprit. spark plug wire number 6 seemed to be chewed through or could have found some way to burn itself off. changed all the plugs and wires and now shes back and with a little more power than she had before.

NICE isn't it!!